PETS CARE

Dog tummy-problem treatment

2010-01-19T17:30:00.001-08:00

Some dogs are prone to sensitive stomachs for various reasons including food allergies, and can't be fed just any diet. Luckily, there are a variety of dog foods on the market that are geared specifically for these pooches, as well as other remedies to sooth the stomach and help the food stay down.

Tips & Warnings

Feeding smaller meals throughout the day instead of two larger meals is often easier on dogs with sensitive stomachs.
An enzyme/probiotics powder can be mixed in with your dog's food to help aid in digestion. NaturVet makes a good one that is sold at pet supply stores and online at sites such as 1800PetMeds.com. Enzyme supplements have been proven effective for dogs with digestion problems and recurring pancreatitis.
Famotidine (Pepcid and generic versions) is an over-the-counter drug for human indigestion that can be given to dogs with sensitive stomachs before their meal. Veterinarians usually prescribe one 10-mg. tablet per day for most dogs. It's mild enough that certain dogs with digestive issues can take it most of their lives, but always have your dog examined by a vet first and get the vet's OK.
Control the urge to share what's on your plate with your pooch (as much as she loves Italian cuisine and stares at you with those hard-to-resist eyes).
Avoid dog food containing corn and wheat, which are not easily digestible. Also, some dogs may develop allergies from corn and wheat or other grains and low quality dog foods containing meat by-products. There are various allergy formula, grain-free and limited-ingredient dog foods on the market. Dick Patten's Natural Balance, for instance, combines one protein source and one carbohydrate source and no grains in order to decrease the risk of allergies.
The following foods can cause allergies in some dogs and actually aggravate a sensitive stomach: chicken, turkey, beef, dairy, corn, wheat, soy and eggs. A vet may need to test your dog to narrow it down.

Instructions

Step 1

Take your dog to the vet for an exam to make sure the problem is not more serious than a "sensitive stomach." There are a variety of medical conditions that can cause digestive problems such as colitis and pancreatitis. Only a blood test will tell for sure.
Step 2

Use an elevated dog bowl. This aids in digestion, especially with larger dogs, since that they don't have to bend over as far. There are a variety of styles that can be found at most stores that sell pet supplies.
Step 3

Feed a diet consisting of easily digestible ingredients such as chicken, rice and oatmeal. If feeding a commercial dog food, a special formula for sensitive stomachs may do the trick, or if the problem is more severe and recurring, your vet may suggest a prescription dog food. Whatever the case, stick to a quality food.
Step 4

Feed your dog treats that aid in digestion or are made specifically for sensitive stomachs. Charcoal dog biscuits, for instance, are recommended for settling upset stomachs and easing gas.
Step 5

Supplement your sensitive stomach dog's diet with boiled chicken and rice, oatmeal, cottage cheese or yogurt. If you don't have the time to do the research and feed your dog a nutritionally-balanced homemade diet, it's better to feed a quality dog food and supplement with the aforementioned human foods.

Dog tummy-problem treatment

Tips of Goldfish Feeding

2010-01-19T17:22:00.001-08:00

Funny how the simplest procedure - feeding your fish - can be so easily botched. For proper feeding, consider the following.

Tips & Warnings

Buy a vacation food block if you are going to be away from the tank for more than a weekend.
Overfeeding your fish will pollute the tank, which could easily endanger your fish's life. Err on the side of caution.

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

Aquarium Fish Nets
Goldfish Food Packages
Brine Shrimp
Weekend/holiday Fish Food

Step 1

Purchase the right kind of food for your fish. Goldfish need protein and a wide range of vitamins and carbohydrates, so choose a nutrient-rich food specifically for goldfish. Use either flake-form or floating pellets. Ask at the aquarium store for food recommendations for the specific type of goldfish you own.
Step 2

Consider occasionally offering snacks, such as leafy vegetables (lettuce and spinach) or live food (brine shrimp and mosquito larvae), for variety.
Step 3

Feed your fish once a day by adding one small pinch of food to the tank at a time. In general, provide as much food as the fish will consume in 2 minutes. (Vary this accordingly for larger fish.) Remember to offer just a tiny amount in each pinch.
Step 4

Remove excess food with a net after the feeding session, to avoid polluting the water.
Step 5

Consider using a feeding ring, which attaches to the side of the tank and allows better control, thus reducing the risk of overfeeding your fish.
(Tips of Goldfish Feeding)

Know the Signs of Dog Disease

2009-12-26T18:19:00.001-08:00

The following is a list of most common diseases and in a dog and signs that characterize them. However, this list is not intended to be used to diagnose and treat your dog, but rather as a tool to tell when your dog is ill. Communicating with your veterinarian is a key part of ensuring good health care for your dog.

DISEASES	SIGNS
Abscesses (according to site)	difficulty moving, fever, loss of appetite, pus
Arthritis	painful to touch
Burns	rapid breathing, shedding coat, ulceration
Cystitis (inflammation of the bladder)	abdominal pain, blood in the urine, difficult or no urination, painful urination, urinary incontinence
Dermatitis (skin inflammation)	shedding coat, skin irritation, ulceration
Diabetes Insipidus	intense thirst, urinary incontinence, urinary incontinence, voracious appetite
Diabetes Mellitus	bad breath, coma, frequent urination, intense thirst, urinary incontinence, voracious appetite
Distemper	abdominal pain, convulsions, cough, diarrhea (normal), loss of appetite, fever, low spirits, poor appetite, rapid breathing, trembling, vomiting, voracious appetite
Eclampsia	changes in behavior, convulsions, bedsores, fever, lethargy, loss of appetite, loss of balance, painful breathing, trembling
Eczema	shedding coat, skin irritation
Enteritis (inflammation of the intestines)	abdominal pain, diarrhea (normal), loss of appetite, vomiting, weight loss
External Parasites	scratches the ears, shedding coat, skin irritation
Foreign Bodies	abdominal pain, constipation, cough, cyanosis, diarrhea (normal), difficulty swallowing, intense thirst, loss of appetite, painful to touch, scratches the ears, swelling of the abdomen, vomiting
Gastritis	abdominal pain, bad breath, loss of appetite, swelling of the abdomen, vomiting
Hemorrhage	conspicuous inner eyelid, painful breathing, rapid breathing, shock
Heart Disease	abdominal distension, convulsions, cough, lethargy, mucous tissues pale, painful breathing
Heat Stroke	changes in behavior, coma, bedsores, fever, intense thirst, loss of appetite, loss of balance, low spirits, painful breathing, painful to touch, rapid breathing, shock, ulceration
Infectious Hepatitis	abdominal pain, diarrhea (with blood), fever, intense thirst, jaundice, lethargy, loss of appetite, painful breathing, rapid breathing, vomiting
Internal Parasites	cough, diarrhea (with blood), diarrhea (normal), mucous tissues pale, swelling of the abdomen, vomiting, voracious appetite, weight loss
Intestinal Blockage	abdominal pain, constipation, convulsions, lethargy, loss of appetite, poor appetite, vomiting
Leptospirosis	abdominal pain, blood in the urine, cyanosis, diarrhea (normal), difficult or no urination, fever, jaundice, lethargy, loss of appetite, painful urination, poor appetite, rapid breathing, vomiting
Leukemia	lethargy, loss of appetite, low spirits, mucous tissues pale, conspicuous inner eyelid painful breathing, rapid breathing, vomiting
Metritis (inflammation of the uterus)	abdominal pain, convulsions, cyanosis (low blood oxygen), lethargy, loss of appetite, conspicuous inner eyelid, pus, swelling of the abdomen, vomiting
Nephritis	abdominal distension, abdominal pain, bad breath, cyanosis (low blood oxygen), difficult or no urination, fever, frequent urination, lethargy, low spirits, painful urination, swelling of the abdomen
Otitis	convulsions, loss of balance, pus, scratches the ears, skin irritation
Para-Influenza	cough, painful breathing
Parvovirus	convulsions, diarrhea with blood, diarrhea (normal), fever, lethargy, loss of appetite, low spirits, conspicuous inner eyelid, poor appetite, rapid breathing, vomiting, weight loss
Poisoning	changes in behavior, convulsions, cyanosis (low blood oxygen), diarrhea (with blood), diarrhea (normal), poor appetite, rapid breathing, shedding coat, shock, trembling, vomiting
Rabies	changes in behavior, convulsions, fever, intense thirst, loss of balance, low spirits, mucous tissues pale, conspicuous inner eyelid, poor appetite, trembling, weight loss
Ringworm	shedding coat
Stones	abdominal pain, blood in the urine, difficult or no urination, painful urination, urinary incontinence
Tartar	bad breath
Tonsillitis	cough, difficulty swallowing, fever, loss of appetite, vomiting
Toothache	bad breath, difficulty swallowing, intense thirst, loss of appetite
Torsion of the Stomach	abdominal pain, changes in behavior, coma, convulsions, difficulty swallowing, intense thirst, loss of appetite, conspicuous inner eyelid, mucous tissues pale, painful breathing, painful to touch, poor appetite, rapid breathing, swelling of the abdomen, vomiting
Tuberculosis	cough, loss of appetite, low spirits, conspicuous inner eyelid, painful breathing, rapid breathing, trembling, weight loss
Tumors	abdominal distension, loss of appetite, mucous tissues pale, conspicuous inner eyelid, painful to touch, weight loss

How Dogs Get Intestinal Worms

2009-05-11T18:22:00.000-07:00

Intestinal Worms
Worms are common to dogs and puppies, and some may be passed to humans. Worms are usually passed to puppies via the mother's milk, which is why veterinarians administer worming medications to young puppies to treat and prevent worm infection. It is recommended to check adult dogs every year for worms and even the people the infected animal has been in contact with.
Types of Intestinal Worms
There are five main types of worms in dogs, and all with the exception of heart worms, affect the intestines of the animal. The most common intestinal parasite is the canine hookworm which attaches itself to the lining of the small intestine and lives off the blood of the dog. Tapeworms are also common and can be detected as small and flat rice-like objects that wriggle about in the feces of animals. They can be passed to humans and are resistant to over-the-counter deworming medications. Roundworms and whipworms are also intestinal parasites that attack dogs and other mammals. Whipworms, however, are not quite as common as the others and is difficult to diagnose. Whipworms do not lay many eggs, so multiple stool samples are usually required for proper diagnosis and treatment.
How Dogs Get Worms
Dogs can contract intestinal parasites like worms through a number of different ways and that's what makes the issue so common. Not only can the eggs of intestinal worms be passed through the milk of a lactating mother and the feces of other infected mammals, they can also be found in foods, soil and even carpet and linens. In rural areas, it is not unusual for roundworms and even heart worms to be contracted from horses and other livestock.
How Dogs Get Intestinal Worms - By C Hoffman

4 steps know your dog fat or not ?

2009-05-11T18:18:00.000-07:00

My dog? Overweight? Couldn’t be. Surely my dog is not fat! Ah, the song of denial by so many dog owners. But how can you be objective about your lovable pet? Here is how to know if your dog fat.

Step 1 Don’t expect yourself to be objective about your pet. Check your dog directly and try not to judge what is good and what is bad.

Step 2 Check you dog’s body. Run your hands over your pet and see if you can feel the ribs on either side of the body. You should be able to feel his or her individual ribs. If the ribs feel smooth, your dog is probably too fat. Run your fingers down the spine. There should be a sense of solidity on either side of the spine. You should not be able to feel any ribs at the top of his/her back. A bony back could mean your pet is too thin.

Step 3 Another way to check your dog’s weight is to look at his or her tummy. A dog in good condition should have a deeper chest with a noticeable tuck that lifts the tummy and creates a narrowness in the second half underneath. This is less reliable in an older dog as, just like with humans, organs tend to push down with gravity and that ‘trim waistline’ is less defined.

Step 4 If your dog is fat you are not only making him/her more vulnerable to disease and injury, but you are denying your pet his/her chance to feel good and energetic. Just like people, dogs feel happier when they don’t have to lug around a lot of extra weight. So check you dog regularly to keep weight under control.

4 steps know your dog fat or not-By Gardengates

Spider Bites treatment in Dogs

2009-05-11T18:10:00.000-07:00

If your pet starts to innocently explore outdoors—as in, put his nose where it may not belong—he may end up with a spider bite. The two main types of spiders to watch out for are: the black widow and brown recluse. Both of these spiders bite, and release venom when they do. Pets are commonly bit by the black widow (identified by their red hourglass-shaped marking) when they invade their nests. Although black widow bites are rarely fatal, smaller pets may have a more severe reaction, which can turn out to be fatal if not treated properly. Brown recluse spiders (recognized by the fiddle-shaped mark on their back) tend to hang out in dark, secluded areas and bite when they feel their space is invaded. Pets usually recover well from brown recluse bites, although a full recovery make take several weeks. Here are the steps for treating both of these types of spider bites.

Tips
Signs of a black widow bite occur immediately.There is a black widow antivenin available at hospitals for humans that can be also be used to treat pets, but always consult with a veterinarian before administering this type of treatment to your pet.There is a variety of topical treatments that you can apply to the bite area including antibiotic ointment and natural remedies that will prevent infection and aid in healing.Smaller pets may have more severe reactions to black widow venom due to their size, and cats normally have a more severe reaction than dogs.Pets with shorter or thinner fur are more prone to spider bites and scorpion stings.Do not place a tourniquet above or over a spider bite, as it will cut off circulation. With a black widow bite it will not stop the venom from spreading and with a brown recluse bite the venom normally stays in one place, anyway.If a brown recluse bite wound doesn’t heal, surgery may be required to remove the skin from around the affected area.

How to Treat a Black Widow Bite
Step 1 Keep your pet as calm and quiet as possible to slow down the venom from spreading. If the bite was on a limb, make sure to keep the limb lower than your pet's heart level.

Step 2 Give your pet 1 mg. of Benadryl per pound of body weight after checking with your pet’s vet to make sure it’s OK. This will help reduce swelling, inflammation and itching.

Step 3 Apply a cold or ice pack to the area to reduce swelling. A bag of frozen vegetables will work also.

Step 4 Schedule an appointment with your vet as soon as possible. If you notice any unusual redness or swelling, or your pet has difficulty breathing or moving (paralysis), get her to a vet or animal emergency clinic immediately.

How to Treat a Brown Recluse Bite
Step 1 Most pets won’t realize they were bitten by a brown recluse, but look for redness to appear after a while.

Step 2 Clean the wound with hydrogen peroxide, chlorhexidine or povidone iodine.

Step 3 If your pet develops a rash, fever, chills, vomiting, diarrhea or appears lethargic, seek veterinary attention immediately. If the wound becomes larger or there is constant drainage, it is also a good idea to seek veterinary care.
Spider Bites treatment in Dogs - By Melissa Maroff

how to handle a snake bite in dogs

2009-05-11T18:03:00.000-07:00

Venomous snakes pose a threat to pets as well as people. When our pets spend time outside in warmer weather (or in the case of climates like California, year 'round) there is always the risk of snake bites. As you are probably aware, snake bites can often be fatal—therefore how you treat the bite can be a matter of life and death for your pet. Here are the steps to treating snake bites in pets.

Tips
There is a rattlesnake vaccine available for dogs and cats. If you spend a lot of time camping or hiking with your pet or in an area frequented by rattlesnakes, consult with your vet about administering the vaccine. It won’t necessarily save your pet’s life, but can buy time until you get to the vet.A snake bite can cause your pet’s face and neck area to swell up, which could close the respiratory tract and cut off breathing. This can cause more immediate danger than the bite itself.Even if the snake that bites your pet isn't poisonous, snakes transmit bacteria, so veterinary care is still essential.

Step 1 Keep your dog or cat as still and calm as possible, and if you can, pick your pet up. The slower his pulse and breathing, the slower he will absorb the venom.

Step 2 If your pet was bitten on the neck, remove her collar. If it’s a bitten limb, keep the limb below your pet’s heart level.

Step 3 Immediately call the closest vet or animal emergency clinic if it’s after hours and see if they have antivenin for snake bites (not all vets stock it). Ask the vet if you should administer Benadryl in the meantime (usual dose for snake bites is 2 mg. per pound of pet’s body weight).

Step 4 Identify the type of snake or try to describe it without getting near it.

Step 5 Never do any of the following: try to cut out the wound, suck out the poison, apply ice, a cold pack or tourniquet. Although you don’t want the poison spreading to the vital organs, you also don’t want it concentrated in one place.

Step 6 Get your pet to the vet immediately. The vet will likely administer antivenin along with intravenous fluids.

how to handle a snake bite in dogs - By Melissa Maroff

Bee Stings Treatment in Dogs

2009-05-11T17:58:00.000-07:00

With warmer weather comes bees—and with bees—unfortunately may come bee stings. Pets are not any more immune to bee stings than people. In fact, since they have a fondness for snapping at insects, they have even more of a chance of getting stung. Should this unpleasant experience befall your pet—here are the best ways to treat a sting.

Tips & Warnings
An EpiPen, a device that injects epinephrine, can buy some time for a pet with severe allergic reactions to bee stings until you get to the vet. Check with your vet about keeping an EpiPen on hand if your pet is prone to allergic reactions.The above steps are for immediate treatment of bee stings. There is a variety of natural and herbal remedies to soothe the area and promote healing. Check with your vet or a herbalist/homeopath for suggestions.Follow the above steps for hornet and wasp stings except for Step 1 (hornet and wasp stingers don’t become imbedded, although tend to be more painful than bee stings).If a number of bees swarm your pet, always seek immediate veterinary attention.A swollen muzzle can often indicate a bee sting. Swelling of the face and neck area can cause your pet’s respiratory tract to close and cut off breathing.

Step 1 If you see the bee’s stinger, scrape it away with a credit card or other blunt object such as a popsicle stick. Don’t pull the stinger with your fingers or tweezers, as that could release additional venom into your pet’s body.

Step 2 Give your pet 1 mg. of Benadryl per pound of your pet’s body weight after checking with your pet’s vet to make sure it’s OK. This will help reduce swelling, inflammation and itching.

Step 3 Apply a cold or ice pack to the area to reduce swelling. A bag of frozen vegetables will work!

Step 4 Monitor your pet for the next several hours. If you notice any major swelling that extends beyond the sting site, or your pet seems weak or has trouble breathing, take him to a vet immediately.

Bee Stings Treatment in Dogs - By Melissa Maroff

SAVE YOUR DOGS LIFE_About Dog Insurance

2009-05-11T17:51:00.000-07:00

Dogs need dog insurance. Pets get sick just life humans do, accidents can and will happen. Protect yourself and your pet--if you can afford it--get dog insurance!

Step 1 Step 1

Determining the right plan for yourself and your dog. There are thousands of plans out there. Do not spend to much, but make sure your plan would cover you-and potentially save your dog--if an emergency did occur.

Step 2 get regular check-upsstep 2

Find a dog insurance quote. For a mid-size dog, weighing 30-50 pounds, you should be paying around $15-20 a month. There are price comparisons dog insurance quotes online. Find your plan and find the company which provides the most economical since for you!

Step 3step 3

Decide if you like the plan/price. Many companies do match quotes--if you receive a dog insurance quote which you agree on the price, however, are unfamiliar with the company, then negotiate. Insurance companies match dog insurance quotes

Step 4step 4

Pay monthly. Set up an automatic payment plan through your bank. Dog insurance fees are monthly so be sure to set up a withdrawal plan.

SAVE YOUR DOGS LIFE_About Dog Insurance - By sport

Skin Problems treatment of dog

2009-05-09T00:04:00.000-07:00

Step 1 Purchase Apple Cider Vinegar at the local Supermarket.

Step 2 Apply Apple Cider Vinegar to Cotton Ball.

Step 3 Rub Apple Cider Vinegar on Dog's stomach.

Springtime is upon us and so begins my dog’s allergic reaction to everything growing or blooming. The most beautiful time of year begins miserably for my Pit Bull Terrier, “Sunshine” and does not end until the winter.

Her misery began when she turned two years old and it was the beginning of the summer. It started with one small red bump on her stomach, which led to another and another. The sores spread like wildfire and left behind a trail of destruction and a very unhappy pooch. I consider myself very vigilant when it comes to the health, safety and happiness of my dog and continually try to be proactive with any adverse health issues affecting her.

At this point I made an appointment with my Veterinarian, his diagnosis was a staph infection caused by allergies (dust, grass, etc.). Poor Sunshine was even biting her feet because she is allergic to freshly cut grass. The Vet prescribed her an antibiotic and steroid that did successfully clear-up the infection. The only problem, this was only a temporary fix and the sores soon returned. Since I enjoy researching all sorts of ailments and how to fix them naturally, I decided to storm the internet.

This will surprise a lot of people, and after spending a fortune on products I wanted to kick myself. The solution, “Apple Cider Vinegar” and it was right under my nose the entire time. My internet research surrounded around the search “killing bacteria organically,” after many twists and turns I ended up with some interesting information. Apple Cider Vinegar is not harmful to dogs if ingested or applied on the skin and kills 99% of all bacteria. Well, my dog’s skin was attacking the tissue as an allergic reaction from everything floating in the air which was leading to sores and ultimately a staph infection. My deductive reasoning led me in the direction that if I can kill the bacteria on her skin that is causing the spread of these sores, then problem solved.

The experiment began with me rubbing straight cider vinegar on her sore stomach each night using a cotton ball. Be careful not to use straight cider vinegar near your dog’s private parts, ears or paws as it will burn these sensitive areas (never put in eyes). Be sure to dilute the vinegar with water near these sensitive areas using only a small amount of vinegar. Use it consistently for two weeks or so, depending on your dog’s condition.

The final solution that will end the daily ritual of putting vinegar on your dog’s stomach every night, drop a capful or two into your dogs water dish every time you give them new water. Trust me when I tell you that your dog will not even smell or taste the vinegar. Finally, this will end your dog’s discomfort and give you peace of mind.
Skin Problems treatment of dog - By Sunny

Never leave your dog in a hot car

2009-05-09T00:00:00.000-07:00

LEAVING A DOG LOCKED IN A HOT CAR IS FATAL! Partially open windows do not allow enough heat to disperse, as the temperature within a car can rise to 120 degrees Fahrenheit WITHIN LESS THAN 10 MINUTES.
Every year, thousands of pets suffer life threatening heat stroke and hundreds succumb to death from being left in a hot car.
Most people think that if they leave the windows open, they are not putting their pet's life in danger. THAT IS NOT TRUE! Dogs can only cool themselves by panting and sweating through their paw pads.
Even if the outside temperature is mild, say 70-75 degrees F, the temperature inside a car will rise to 120 degrees F or more within 5-10 minutes. No dog can withstand those temperatures unharmed.
That is animal cruelty and IT IS A CRIME!

Tips
Download and keep flyers in your carKeep bottled water for emergenciesProgram your phone for the police and the animal control center in your areaFind out the laws in your state re: animal neglect & leaving pets unattended in cars from your local shelterMake sure you have a witness if you have to rescue a dog from a hot car.If the police arrive and rescue the pet, file a report with them, otherwise that pet may get locked in a hot car again.

Step 1 Now that you know how dangerous it is to leave a dog in a hot car, this is what you can do:
1. If you are at a store or restaurant and see a dog locked in a car, write down the color, make, model and license plate number of the vehicle.
2. Determine how affected the dog is, i.e. is it still alert or has it passed out (see below for further signs of heat stroke). If the dog is still alert, go into the establishment and ask for the manager.
Ask the manager to make an announcement that there is a dog in distress inside a ______(give vehicle description / plate #).
3. If the owner does not respond immediately, call the police or animal control. If the owner does respond, explain politely the dangers of leaving a pet in a hot car and give them a flyer (see resources below)as a reminder.
Many states have a law making it illegal to leave an animal unattended in a car, as it constitutes neglect and animal cruelty.
Witnessing an animal in a locked vehicle constitutes a crime in progress, according to the PETA website.
3. If the authorities are slow to respond and the animal's life appears to be in imminent danger, find a witness to corroborate your findings and then take steps to remove the suffering animal.

Step 2 If you rescue a dog who is displaying signs of heat stroke, such as:
*Excessive panting
*Drooling
*Weakness
*Bright red tongue and gums
*Glassy eyes
*Staggering
*Loss of consciousness
you should try to cool the canine off gradually.
Use cool water (not ice cold-it's too much of a shock) or wet towels on the head, neck and chest. If the dog is awake, try to give it some water, slowly, to prevent vomiting.
It is vital to get a dog with heat stroke from being locked in a hot car to the vet immediately!

Step 3 Finally, as with many things, PREVENTION is the key to keep dogs from dying due to intense heat exposure in a locked car.
There are several websites listed in the Resource section below, that have flyers available for download to assist you in spreading the word.
I keep several in my car and I just used one the other day at a store. When I parked, I noticed that there was a dog in a car with 2 windows cracked 1/2 inch each. I put a flyer on the windshield and went to the store manager to ask for a page. The woman that owned the car came out of the store and she was embarrassed, but once she read the flyer, she was very apologetic, vowing never to do that again. She said she never knew the temperature could rise so fast even with the windows cracked.
Education is the key! Be a doggie spokesperson and save a dog today!
Never leave your dog in a hot car - By stefyspeak,

Catch the dog tick early

2009-05-08T23:52:00.000-07:00

Spring is tick season, and there's a good possibility your dog will get a tick. If you catch it early, you can remove the tick relatively easily. All it requires is a steady hand and tweezers.

Tips
To prevent ticks, look into getting a tick and flea collar for your dog.Don't try to use matches, soap or other material to make the tick back out. This can cause the tick to regurgitate its stomach contents into the wound, making infection much more likely.Don't squeeze the tick's body. This will also cause its stomach contents to empty.

Step 1 Check your dog daily for ticks, especially in the spring. Ticks will range in size from very small to as large as a lima bean if it has been a feeding a while. If you notice the dog scratching a particular spot, make sure to check that area thoroughly.

Step 2 Once you find the tick, you'll want to put on gloves to prevent yourself from getting infection.

Step 3 Taking tweezers with a very fine point, grasp the tick right where it attached to the dog.

Step 4 With slow and constant force, pull the tick straight out from the skin.

Step 5 Place the tick in a jar of alcohol. If your dog gets sick later, they'll be able to analyze the tick for any diseases.

Step 6 Wash the area with a mild soap and water. If the head broke off, you can try to remove it, but it will come out on its own in a few days.

Step 7 Watch the spot to make sure that a red ring does not appear around the bite.

Catch the dog tick early - By circusmama,

Traveling with your pet requires a lot of preparation.

2009-05-08T23:49:00.000-07:00

Step 1 Bring your dogs, water bowl, food dish, dog food and treats.
Bring your dogs leash.

Step 2 Check your with dog's vet prior to travel

Step 3 Get you dog comfortable with their travel kennel.

Prior to travel first check with your dogs veterinarian to verify that your pet is healthy enough for travel. Certain pets have difficulty breathing such as the Boxer breeds and Boston Terriers. Those breeds are not comfortable with airline travel.

Have your veterinarian weigh your dogs. Most airlines will only allow small dogs up to 20lbs with traveling kennel case. Otherwise your pet will have to go into the cargo hold. Check with your
airline carrier for their restrictions. Dogs must be at least eight weeks old to fly. Have your dog tags include your cell phone telephone#.

7/10 days prior to your flight obtain a signed health certificate from your vet. Also have with your dog’s medical records including shot records. Seek your vets advice with regards to medicating your dog with tranquilizers during the flight and prior to the flight.

In selecting a pet travel kennel, ensure that the kennel is airline approved. Measure your dog from the nape of the neck (where the collar falls) to the base of the tail. This is to measure your dogs
length. To measure your dogs height measure from the dogs shoulder to the floor.

Prior to your flight let your dogs know that the travel kennel is her/his kennel. Every other day for about 10 to 15 minutes at a time put your dog into the kennel. The dog will be more comfortable and used to the kennel. Line your travel kennel with an absorbent material such as newspapers or an old towel.

If your are planning to travel overseas with your dog, contact a travel agency and or pet travel service at least a month prior. Also verify with the US embassy/consulate what the host countries
travel restrictions are for dogs. It is your responsibility to obtain all required documentation prior to your flight. You also want to verify that the documentation is filled out properly.

For domestic travel, bring with you the dogs shot records, health certificate, and copies of medical records. Contact your airline 24/48 hours prior to your flight to ensure that they are aware of your travel arraignments with your pet. Fill out your address card, with your cell phone# and home #,your dogs name, include instructions for feeding and watering your dog, include the type of food you feed your dog. Be prepared to take your dog though TSA security screening.

As for picking the type of airline flights, it is best to book a direct flight to your destination. Avoid travel on the holiday’s, or weekend travel if possible. In most cases you have to call the 1-800# and speak directly to the airlines representative to book your flight. Check with your airlines to verify the air fairs, special fees for traveling with your dogs. Avoid extreme weather conditions such as extreme heat or cold temperatures.

By taking those actions prior to flying with your dog, you can make the dog as comfortable as possible.

Traveling with your pet requires a lot of preparation. - By bc-frugalinlaw,

Know about Persistent Vomiting in Dogs

2009-05-08T23:46:00.000-07:00

Eating
Persistent vomiting in dogs is often triggered by eating something, or by certain types of eating behavior. The Second Chance veterinary website says that dogs often eat toxic plants, garbage or other things they find outside. They may also eat items found in the household, like shoes or rags. These toxic or foreign objects can cause vomiting. Gulping food too quickly or eating large quantities of unhealthy foods including table scraps can also lead to vomiting.
Blockage
When there is a blockage inside the dog's stomach, it will vomit persistently because its body is trying to get rid of the obstruction. Second Chance says that most internal obstructions are caused by ingesting something large, like a tennis ball or bone. It can be something the dog was given to chew or play with that it accidentally swallows.
Parasites
A dog will often vomit persistently if it has become infested with a severe load of intestinal worms or other parasites. This problem mostly commonly occurs in puppies, which commonly become infected by roundworm or hookworm infestations. According to Second Change, the roundworms lead to persistent vomiting by blocking the dog's intestines. Hookworms make the animal vomit because they lead to inflammation inside of the small intestine.
Motion Sickness
Some dogs vomit persistently when they ride in a car. Like humans, they can be prone to motion sickness. This is especially common if the dog eats right before you take it in the car. Over time, some dogs may get over their tendency to vomit on car trips.
Stomach Inflammation
Second Chance says that some dogs can develop stomach inflammation--also known as chronic gastritis--which causes them to vomit persistently. It can be triggered by eating irritating items including tree bark, sticks or dirt. However, its most common cause is stress, and it's mostly commonly seen in very high-strung or nervous dogs.
Tumors
Elderly dogs may vomit persistently because they have a tumor growing in their stomach or inside the small intestines. The vomiting is triggered by chronic irritation caused by the tumor, This irritation comes from the tumor's position and growth, and it can increase as the size of the tumor increases.
Know about Persistent Vomiting in Dogs - By Barb Nefer,

Do your dog has cellulite or over weight

2009-05-08T19:46:00.000-07:00

Dogs can be overweight, just like their human owners. We indulge ourselves, and we often do the same for our pets. When we feed our dogs rich food and handfuls of treats, they can get too fat and develop cellulite. It's a challenge to treat in canines, just as it is in humans, but you can take some steps to treat it and reduce its appearance. They have to be done consistently, and you also need to control your dog's diet, but if you do you should see some good results in your pet.

Tips & Warnings
Treating cellulite in dogs is similar to treating it in humans. The best ways are all linked to making healthy lifestyle changes. As you treat your dog, use that as an inspiration to change your own habits too. Exercise along with your dog, watch your own eating habits, and reduce your stress through petting the animal. You may just find that your reaping benefits of your own from the treatment.

Instructions
Step 1 Brush your dog regularly with a stiff-bristled brush. A popular human treatment for cellulite is dry-skin brushing, and this same technique can easily be used with dogs. Brushing your dog on a daily basis, with a special emphasis on the areas with cellulite, can help to tighten it. Brisk brushing also stimulates blood flow to the area, which supports the repair and growth of tissues. Increased blood flow also helps to move waste products out of the cells. All of these effects support the reduction of cellulite.

Step 2 Give your dog exercise, such as a long walk or a romp in a dog park, on a daily basis. Movement stimulates blood flow, reduces fat, and supports muscle development. When you keep your dog moving, the activity will also burn off the fatty acids that contribute to the development of cellulite.

Step 3 Spend some time petting your dog every day, giving special attention to the areas of cellulite, Like brushing, massaging pet strokes will increase blood flow to the area. This helps to tighten the skin, promotes tissue health, and helps remove toxins in the area.

Step 4 Reduce your dog's food intake to a healthy level. Many humans equate food with pleasure and try to be kind to their dogs or reward them with excessive food and treats. Talk to your vet to see if your dog should lose some weight. If so, follow his recommendations for food and appropriate portions. Switch to healthier treats, and use them sparingly. It's healthier to reward your dog's good behavior with praise rather than food. Pet People's Place says that raw carrots make a good low-calorie dog treat.
Do your dog has cellulite or over weight - By Barb Nefer

Prevention of Vomiting cause by dog Heartworms

2009-05-08T19:42:00.000-07:00

Symptoms
Heartworms enter a dog's body when the dog is bitten by a carrier mosquito. Baby heartworms, or microfilariae, are passed on by the mosquito and work their way through the dog's bloodstream and into its heart and lungs, remaining there as they mature into large worms. They don't enter the digestive system, and so do not cause vomiting. Typical symptoms of heartworms are anemia, coughing and general weakness, rather than distress in the digestive system.
Treatment
Treatment for heartworms in dogs is dangerous, and it can cause vomiting. The dog is injected with drugs to kill all of the worms, as well as any microfilariae. The dead worms have to be passed out of the dog's body, as do the drug by-products, and because the drugs are so powerful, it's common for a dog to vomit after administration. The nausea may continue and the dog's appetite may decrease during the treatment period, which usually lasts for several weeks, during which the dog will be given two to four shots. The vomiting will subside when the treatment is done.
Prevention
Many dog owners give their pets oral medication to prevent heartworm. Most dogs tolerate the preventive medication very well, but in rare cases it may upset a dog's stomach and cause vomiting. Your veterinarian can recommend an alternate medication if this happens, or use another form of administration such as an injection.
Prevention of Vomiting cause by dog Heartworms - By Barb Nefer

About Sarcoptic Mange on dog

2009-05-08T19:37:00.000-07:00

When tiny bugs belonging to the mite family burrow under the skin of a dog, reactions include hair loss, red patches and extreme itching. From puppies with underdeveloped immune systems to older canines with diabetes, mange can lead to complications in pets when left untreated. To remedy the condition, changes in diet can help build immunity and fight mange in dogs.

Identification
A common dietary treatment for dog mange includes a raw food diet with 50 percent of meals consisting of uncooked meat, such as beef, turkey, lamb and venison.
Significance
Treating dog mange is important because mite problems can lead to debilitating self-trauma, unbearable skin inflammation and the potential for secondary bacterial infections.
Function
A raw food diet treats canine skin conditions because the food choices provide essential vitamins, minerals and fatty acids that commercial dog foods lack.
Effects
Raw foods like watercress, alfalfa sprouts, zucchini, corn, apples, bananas, mango and other yellow- and green-colored foods are known to flush out toxins and fight mange symptoms in dogs.
Considerations
A balanced raw food diet may include easily digestible additions to regular meals, such as noodles, brown rice, mashed potatoes and oats softened with boiling water.
Suggestions
A raw food diet containing carrots, parsley and celery not only treats dog mange, but can also heal arthritis and the urinary tract system.
Warning
Because of intestinal gas and digestive problems, do not use raw broccoli, Brussels sprouts, beans, turnips, cabbage, onions, peppers, tomatoes, spinach and cucumbers as a dietary treatment for dog mange.
About Sarcoptic Mange on dog - By Yona Williams,

About dog walking on Treadmill

2009-05-03T23:48:00.000-07:00

A great way to walk a dog is to use a treadmill. Using a treadmill is a terrific way for your pet to get his exercise and to stay healthy. If it’s raining outside, no problem! You can simply walk your dog on the treadmill for daily exercise and fitness. Another great use for walking a dog on a treadmill is to get out some of that extra energy they’ve stored up during the day. Use this handy tutorial to walk a dog on a treadmill.

Tips & Warnings
Slowly work with your dog to get used to walking on a treadmill.Reward your pet for dog walking on the treadmill.Never feed or give your pet food about one hour prior to dog walking on a treadmill.Allow your pet to relieve himself prior to his dog walk on treadmill to prevent accidents.

Step 1 Walk your dog slowly around the room a few times to get him warmed up before placing him on the treadmill.

Step 2 The first introductions to the treadmill, place the dog on the treadmill without turning it on. Give your dog a reward. Repeat this step until the dog will climb on and off the treadmill on command.

Step 3 With the dog nearby, turn on the treadmill. Let the dog get used to the sound so he will not startle when it’s time to walk on the treadmill. Treats also work well for this stage of the training. Repeat until your dog is comfortable with the sound and movement of the belt of the treadmill.

Step 4 Place your dog or have your dog step onto the treadmill. Slowly walk around the treadmill giving the command for stay. Don’t have your dog sit though! Do this several times in a row to get your dog used to staying on the treadmill. Again reward with treats and repeat until your dog is willing remain on the treadmill.

Step 5 Once your pet is all set to for dog walking on the treadmill, it’s time to place a harness on him with a medium length lead. Have the dog stand on the treadmill and turn it on at the lowest speed. Be ready to lift the dog off of the treadmill should he become frightened. Reward with a treat.

Step 6 Slowly increase the speed of the treadmill to a pace that is natural for your dog. Think about how fast you walk a dog on normal walks. Go just slightly under that pace.

Step 7 Slowly decrease the speed of the treadmill for the dog walk.

Step 8 Stop the treadmill and have your dog get off. Offer a treat again for his dog walk on a treadmill.
About dog walking on Treadmill - By skyedanzer,

Heating pads for your dogs

2009-05-03T23:42:00.000-07:00

Heating pads are useful for providing warmth for young puppies, for dogs during cold weather or for older dogs with arthritis and joint problems. A heating pad is a safe way to increase your dog's comfort when used properly. Proper use is essential to avoid injury to your pet.

Tips & Warnings
Always supervise your dog when using a heating pad, to make sure the animal does not become overheated. To avoid the possibility of skin burns, do not allow your dog to rest directly on the heated pad.

Step 1 Choose between a temperature-controlled heating pad with a safety shutoff and a microwavable heating pad. A temperature-controlled heating pad is plugged in and stays warm throughout the day or night, which makes it a desirable choice when long-term heating is needed. However, it is not a good choice (and is even a safety hazard) when used with dogs who might chew cords. Use a microwavable heating pad for dogs who are chewers.

Step 2 Plug in a temperature-controlled heating pad with a safety shutoff and set it to 90 degrees F. Place the heating pad underneath your dog's bed.

Step 3 Microwave a microwavable heating pad for dogs who are chewers, or if you would prefer a cordless heating option. Heat the pad in the microwave for 30 seconds at a time under high heat, until the pad is the desired temperature. Make sure the pad is not too hot by placing it on your inner wrist. If the pad is too hot, allow it to cool before using it. Once the pad is at the desired temperature, place it inside your dog's bed, underneath a blanket or cushion.
Heating pads for your dogs - By Rose Kivi,

Dog Acute Diarrhea treatment

2009-05-03T23:35:00.000-07:00

Toxins
Dogs with acute diarrhea must rid themselves of the toxins in their body. Vomiting and acute diarrhea will excrete the toxins.
Bland Diet
Give dogs a bland diet of rice and beef broth to help them through their acute diarrhea. Only give small portions of a bland diet after the bout of diarrhea.
Fluid Therapy
Give dog access to plenty of water if the dog is dehydrated. This may involve providing water to the dog every 30 minutes. If the dog is dehydrated, it may drink only a little at first.
Fasting
Make the dog fast for 24 hours to allow the dog's intestinal tract to rest. This means not giving the dog any food during the 24-hour period.
Dog Acute Diarrhea treatment - By J.Winslow,

About toothbrushing in dogs

2009-05-03T23:33:00.000-07:00

Dogs need teeth care as a regular routine. It is important to take care of your dog’s teeth and get him used to tooth brushing from an early age. Regular teeth cleaning will prevent tartar build up and prevent serious infections associated with teeth decay later in life. While dogs do not need their teeth brushed twice a day like humans do, we should still brush it at least once a week to properly remove any buildup from food.

Step 1 Buy dog toothpaste. Human toothpastes are not suitable for dogs. While we spit out most of our toothpastes, dogs will swallow instead. Dog toothpastes are designed for dogs in two ways, flavor and safety. They come in a variety of flavors that are pleasant to dogs. And they are also safe for your dog to swallow in large amounts.

Step 2 There are two styles of toothbrush for dogs. There is a small soft brush that fits on your fingers. It has very delicate brushes. It is meant for smaller dogs and it’s a great tool to use to introduce tooth brushing to your dog. They are called finger toothbrush.

Step 3 The other toothbrush looks very similar to human tooth brush and it’s meant to the back teeth and harder to reach areas.

Step 4 Introduce your dog to tooth brushing by first letting them smell the toothpaste. If they like it, they will lick it. It is important that the dog likes the toothpaste flavor because tooth brushing is not a pleasant experience for them and you want to make it as painless as possible for dogs.

Step 5 Put some toothpaste on the finger brush or toothbrush. Gently lift their upper lip to expose some of the teeth. You don’t have to force open their jaw, actually that would make the dog hate the experience more. Gently brush each tooth. Most dogs will swallow toothpaste right away so you don’t have to rinse their mouth.
About toothbrushing in dogs - By Jin Li,

Prevent poor air in dog kennels

2009-05-03T22:08:00.000-07:00

Kennel cough is a common occurrence in kennels with poor air circulation and is the direct result of bacteria. Dogs coughing while in a kennel will quickly spread the bacteria throughout the air and with poor air flow it can quickly spread to other animals. Proper cleaning and vaccinations of dogs can help prevent further sickness from aerial bacteria.
Tips & Warnings
Air purifiers can help circulate air in a kennel and reduce kennel cough. Keep the facility as dry as possible can also reduce bacteria and mold. If a dog begins to cough after it has stayed at a kennel have a veterinarian check the animal. Kennel Cough can lead to serious lung and breathing issues if not properly cared for.Do not use full strength bleach as it may be harmful to the animals and may hurt their if not cleaned off. While air fresheners may say they kill 98 percent of aerial bacteria

Step 1 Clean any area that can collect moisture with diluted bleach and antibacterial spray. Use a mixture that is half bleach and half water.

Step 2 Search for any area that may have mold, including hard-to-reach areas. Checking drainage areas that urine and feces may be collected is important as there may be an abundance of bacteria buildup.

Step 3 Vaccinate any dog that comes into the kennel area so that it can not get kennel cough and can not spread the bacteria. Animal shelters often require strays to be immediately immunized so nothing can be spread.

Step 4 Quarantine any animal that has a chronic cough as they may have kennel cough and should be immediately vaccinated and checked by a veterinarian.

Step 5 Use a dehumidifier if the kennel is open to the outdoor environment. Water building up in a kennel can quickly spread the bacteria and using a dehumidifier can reduce this.
Prevent poor air in dog kennels - By Elliot Volkman,

Steps of Relieve Arthritis in Old Dogs

2009-05-03T22:03:00.000-07:00

This is Daisy. She is a nine year old red-tick hound. She is a sweet girl and spends most of her day snoozing and dreaming about chasing bunnies and squirrels. She loves to romp around and play ball on occasion too. We recently began to notice that when she would get up in the morning she was no longer trotting to her food bowl, but walking and looking stiff. She had a previous injury to one of her front legs and many times she would limp on it when she would get up. She was starting to withdraw and wasn't her usual happy self. She rarely wanted to play ball and she just always looked sad.

So I began my research for a natural remedy for her stiff joints and what appears to be the beginning of arthritis. I found alot of information and decided to start giving her extra virgin coconut oil and a little unprocessed sea salt. Both have been found to be very beneficial in treating stiff joints and arthritis in dogs.

We began giving Daisy extra virgin coconut oil and a little sea salt with her breakfast and by the third day she was trotting to her bowl again! She asks almost everyday if we will play ball. The coolest thing is that she romps around like a puppy like she used to! I am amazed at how quickly the coconut oil and sea salt helped her stiff joints. It's so great to see her being herself again.
Tips & Warnings
Don't forget to walk your dog regularly. This will help keep those joints loose and strong.

Step 1 Get some extra virgin coconut oil. It can be found just about anywhere that sells nutritional supplements or organic foods. You can also find it online. I will include a link in resources to where we get ours.

Step 2 . Give your dog extra virgin coconut oil every day to relieve stiff joints and arthritis. We give Daisy hers in the morning. She weighs about 50 to 60 lbs and we give her 1 tablespoon mixed with her dog food. She loves it! We also give our little 12 lb Rat Terrier/Chuhuahua 1 tsp of the coconut oil for prevention and health.

Step 3 We have also started putting a pinch of unprocessed sea salt in her water dish and sometimes on her food. Dog foods don't provide enough salt, which can cause many problems for them. Get unprocessed sea salt at your local health or whole food store. Put a pinch in your dogs water and/or food.

Step 4 Check out the helpful links in resources for more information on treating your dogs stiff joints and/or arthritis naturally.
Steps of Relieve Arthritis in Old Dogs - By sassyshan,

About saving a Stray Dog

2009-05-03T21:59:00.000-07:00

Ever seen a lost dog, a dirty puppy wandering around, and felt conflicted? You know you should do something, but you're afraid of the inconvenience, scared you'll get stuck with a new pet you can't afford? I'll tell you how to take action without getting stuck with the animal.

Tips & Warnings
Never try to kick a stray dog, you get get bitten. We rescued the dog pictured from our CHURCH parking lot, where a teenager was trying to kick it. This is why you should never assume that someone else will help. Even at a church, most people don't know how to go about dealing with a stray. So it's important that you take action for the safety of your neighborhood, as well as for the well-being of the dog.

Step 1 First and most importantly, look at the situation in terms of safety. If you think the stray dog may be in poor health, could have rabies, may be wounded, or be carrying disease or parasites...proceed with caution. In fact, this should spur you to action, because a dog with those problems shouldn't be loose. It could mean the endangerment of someone's child or pet.

Step 2 If you don't want to take personal responsibilty, call animal control asap. This is easier than ever because of cell phones. Usually, people don't want to call animal control because they don't want the dog to get taken to the pound. Instead, they just walk away leaving the dog to starve or be hit by a car. If you see it, you can do something. Anything less is just a different form of cruelty.

Step 3 Take the animal to a local vet. You can leave it in the car while you go inside and tell them the situation, almost all vet offices are connected with local rescue groups.

Step 4 If the dog doesn't pose a threat to you, isn't growling or barking, and is friendly, you can take it home, put it in your car, or sit with it while you get in touch with local rescue groups. There are plenty of no-kill shelters or local animal rescue organizations. You only have to find a phone book or dial 411 to get this information. It's as simple as that. Start calling around. Someone will be able to help you.

Step 5 Also, taking the dog to the vet, they can be scanned for their chip. Many owners have their animals "micro-chipped", so that they can find them if lost. Also, many animals get lost with their collar intact. It could very well be an easier and shorter ordeal than you might expect.

Step 6 If you want to get rid of a pet, don't just dump it. I've seen so many people do this, and there's just no reason or excuse for it. There are countless rescue organizations. Even as a last resort, taking an animal to the local pound is better than simply abandoning them to an unknown fate.

About saving a Stray Dog - By Audrey M Brown

About dog small bowel problems

2009-05-02T02:43:00.000-07:00

Small bowel disease is one type of Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD) found in dogs. When the small intestine is affected, it will be in a chronic state of inflammation due to the infiltration of cells that normally live in your dog's body, just not in his small intestine. When these cells trespass in your dog's small intestine, they are treated like an infection, resulting in the inflammatory response.

Symptoms
The most common symptoms of small bowel disease are diarrhea and vomiting. Other signs to watch for are blood or mucus in stools, straining to defecate, gas, "grumbling" stomach, painful abdomen, weight loss, change in appetite and lethargy.
Cause
The cause of IBD is unknown. Scientists suspect that it may be due to infection, nutrition, genetics or immune system abnormalities.
Diagnosis
The only definitive way to confirm an IBD is through a biopsy. Your veterinarian will perform the biopsy with an endoscope, or he may opt for exploratory surgery.
Treatment

Your veterinarian will recommend a hypoallergenic, low-fat diet for your dog. She will also prescribe an antibiotic, anti-inflammatory or immunosuppressive drug, or a combination of these drugs, depending on the severity of your dog's condition.
Prognosis

IBD cannot be cured, but with the right combination of diet and medication, it can be controlled. It is important for you to work closely with your vet in monitoring your dog's condition and maintaining her good health.
About dog small bowel problems- By Yvette Marie,

About Benadryl for Dogs

2009-05-02T02:40:00.001-07:00

Dogs often have allergies. These allergies cause rashes, sneezing or scratching. When a dog licks itself or rubs its nose on bedding, a veterinarian may recommend an over-the-counter allergy medication such as Benadryl for temporary relief. Benadryl, or diphenhydramine hydrochloride, is generally safe but can have side effects.

Sedation
The most common side effect is drowsiness or mild disorientation. Benadryl is sometimes used for this mild tranquilizing effect.
Vomiting
Diphenhydramine is often used to ease vomiting or motion sickness. In some dogs, however, the medication makes the dog throw up and the vet may recommend giving it with food to minimize stomach upset.
Drug Interaction
This antihistamine can interact with medications such as tranquilizers and barbiturates to suppress the natural body functions.
Lack of Appetite
Some dogs are not hungry when taking Benadryl. The veterinarian may recommend feeding the dog before giving the medication.
Warning
Read labels carefully and do not use a medication combining diphenhydramine with a pain reliever or decongestant. The combination drugs can be harmful to dogs.
About Benadryl for Dogs- By Phyllis Benson,

Steps of raising a puppy

2009-05-02T02:37:00.000-07:00

One of the most exciting events is a person's life is getting a new dog. Having a new puppy is a big responsibility and the entire household should be aware of this. Here are some basics about how to take care of your new puppy to ensure that you and your pet are happy and healthy.
Tips & Warnings
Always bring your new puppy to the veterinarian for regular visits and checkups

Step 1 Take your new puppy to the veterinarian for a check up and ask for a 411 on the medical needs of your new puppy.

Step 2 When feeding your puppy it is important to feed them on a schedule. Young puppies need to eat up to 4 times a day and this gradually decreases to 3 times as the puppy gets older.

Step 3 When serving the dog food to your puppy make sure to put a little warm water in the bowl to soften the food. A puppy needs the dog food to be softened for a few months before being served dry dog food.

Step 4 It is important to house train your new puppy immediately. Don't think you are just going to teach you puppy when it gets a little older. The sooner the better. Also be consistent with whatever house training method you choose. Crate training is a common method for dogs.

Step 5 If you give your dog multiple treats on a regular daily basis make sure that you decrease the amount of food you give them.

Step 6 Always make sure your dog gets the proper shots from a veterinarian who can give you a detailed description of when and what shots need to be administered.

Step 7 Start grooming your puppy at the very beginning. You want your puppy to be used to the grooming routine as soon as possible. Brushing a puppy's hair is an important part of the health of your dog because it allows you to check or observe the skin closely and could help you spot an infected cut or rash. Make sure toe nails are cut properly making sure to avoid cutting the living part of the nail. It is important that your dog's nails do not get to long because it is discomforting and could overtime deform your dog's paws.
Steps of raising a puppy - By busybee

About dog (pet) Insurance

2009-05-02T02:34:00.000-07:00

If you are a pet owner, you know how quickly a pet becomes a part of the family. We love and care for them like our own children. Unfortunately, our pets are likely to become ill or need some type of medical attention. Whether it is something as small as a vaccination or something major like surgery, pet insurance can save you hundreds, if not thousands of dollars.

Step 1 We found out the hard way that pet insurance is a must if you have a pet, especially multiple pets. Christmas of 2008, our 3 year old Chihuahua became ill and started throwing up for 2 days straight. She lost her appetite and quickly became lethargic. On Christmas morning, my husband rushed her to the nearest 24 hour animal hospital. Just to "see her" cost $300. It turns out she had a foreign object in her stomach and needed surgery asap. Our rough estimate was going to be about $1800. Long story short, at the end of the 4 day nightmare, it cost a total of $4000. We had to take a personal loan to cover that. It was either that or let our family pet die on Christmas morning. How could we break that to our girls? Had we been aware of how affordable and flexible pet insurance is, it would have had a completely different story.

Step 2 Pet insurance is pretty similar to human insurance. You have your monthly premium, or you can opt to pay annually and sometimes saves some money that way. Your premium amount also depends on your deductible and the maximum cap that will be paid out annually. Like regular health insurance, there are also co-pays. It is best to shop around for quotes before you buy a policy.

Step 3 Some things you want to ask before you purchase your policy are the breeds that are covered, whether a pet has to be under a certain age, and most importantly if pre-existing conditions are covered. More than likely, they are not. However, some may cover up to a certain percentage. If you have mulitple pets, you may qualify for a discount.

Step 4 Compare each plan with each company that you get quotes from. There are usually different plans to choose from, usually Premiums plans down to Basics plans. The main differences would be the annual payout benefit and deductibles. Also, plans offer different services. For example, a premium plan may cover burial and cremation cost as opposed to a standard plan that won't. Some plans only cover accidents and illnesses, while others cover that on top of routine exams, xrays, surgery, and more. So be sure to compare side by side which plan is the most flexible and affordable for you, yet offers the main services you are concerned about.

Step 5 There are quite a few pet insurance companies to choose from. This isn't something you want to rush into. If you are unsure how the deductible works or how to file claims, call the customer service number provided. This will also give you the opportunity to find out the ease (or difficulty) of reaching help as well as the helpfulness.

Step 6 Here are some pet insurance companies that you can start with to get quotes. They are not ranked in any particular order.

www.petfirsthealthcare.com

www.hartvillegroup.com

www.trupanionpetinsurance.com

www.akcpethealthcare.com

www.purinacare.com

www.embracepetinsurance.com

www.petassure.com

www.petsbest.com
About dog (pet) Insurance - By txwahm,

Symptoms of Dog Heart Attack

2009-05-02T02:32:00.000-07:00

The difficulties of identifying a heart attack are tripled when it comes to animals. Though a dog suffers many of the same symptoms as a human while having a heart attack, he certainly can't tell you his symptoms. Therefore, you must watch your dog carefully if he starts exhibiting the systems described here.

Wheezing
Often, the first heart-attack symptom to strike dogs is difficulty in breathing. For a dog, this difficulty manifests as wheezing, heavy panting, or coughing. Your dog may also perspire more profusely. If your dog displays this behavior, pay close attention if he starts exhibiting more signs of discomfort or pain.
Pain and Weakness
When a dog experiences a heart attack, he feels deep pain the center of his chest. Therefore, if your dog starts to walk off-balance or collapse altogether, that is a sign there is a serious problem. Your dog may also adopt an unusual sitting or supine position that reflects he is experiencing internal discomfort.
What To Do
If your dog exhibits this unusual behavior, or if you sense something is not right, call your veterinarian immediately. In the meantime, do everything you can to help your dog feel more comfortable. If your dog is wheezing, try to raise his head to give him more access to air. Try to give him water as well, to reduce the chance he will faint from sweating.
The Good News about Dogs and Heart Attacks
Dogs rarely have attacks in the way humans experience them. Therefore, a dog suffering from a seeming "heart attack" is more likely experiencing a heart murmur, an enlarged heart, or some other heart-related problem that is not a heart attack. What this means is that your dog is much more unlikely to die from a heart problem than a human.
Some Dog Breeds Are More Prone to Heart Problems
Heart problems in dogs span a wide range of dog breeds. Yet, great danes, boxers, cocker spaniels, doberman pinschers and poodles more commonly experience heart problems, though vets aren't sure why.
Prevent Heart Problems
Even if you doubt your dog has heart problems, it is still wise for you to schedule yearly vet exams for your dog. During these checkups, the vet will assess your dog's breathing and heart rate and can easily detect heart murmurs and other defects that may lead to more serious problems.
Symptoms of Dog Heart Attack - By Cecilia Kelly,

What kind of food dog can't eat

2009-05-02T02:27:00.000-07:00

Although we share a lot with our dogs, there are certain foods that are off limits to them. These foods are usually common, and most pet owners may not realize the toxic effects until their dog exhibits physical symptoms. In some cases, a few bites of the food may cause an immediate reaction, while in other instances health problems may result over a period of time. Since veterinarians treat many cases of toxicity each year, they recommend that these foods should never be given to dogs in any quantity.

Chocolate
Toxic reactions to ingesting chocolate depend on the form of chocolate, with Baker's chocolate the most dangerous and milk chocolate the least, but any chocolate is still considered unsafe. Symptoms of poisoning appear within hours and include labored breathing, seizures and coma that could lead to death.
Onions and Garlic
Symptoms become evident several days after eating and include labored breathing, vomiting, discolored urine and the development of hemolytic anemia.
Wild Mushrooms
Mushrooms sold in grocery stores are nontoxic. Consider ingestion of wild mushrooms a health concern unless identification of the species confirms it to be a nonhazardous type. Symptoms vary according to the species of mushroom, and may include gastrointestinal and neurological abnormalities, and kidney and liver malfunction.
Grapes/Raisins
Severe reactions usually require the intake of 9 oz. or more. Vomiting, diarrhea and lethargy are symptoms.
Cat Food
This is very high in protein and fats, causing pancreatitis.
Raw Fish
Ingestion of raw fish causes a thiamine deficiency that results in decreased appetite, seizures or death.
What kind of food dog can't eat - By Joyce Handzo,

Correct way of getting rid of Dog-Ticks

2009-04-28T23:03:00.000-07:00

Ever wonder the correct way to remove a tick from your dog? Smothering the tick with nail polish or vaseline really isn't the best solution. This article outlines the easy steps for getting rid of those ticks.

Tips & Warnings
If you have long grass in your yard, cut it short during the summer months

Regularly brush and groom your dog, to help locate ticks

If you live in an area with a lot of ticks, visit your vet or local pet store for tick gel that can be applied to the back of your dog's neck

Ask your vetinarian or insect exterminator about other insecticides that can be used safely around your yard during tick season.

Step1 Using your tweezers, grasp the tick's body as close to your dog's skin as possible because you want to remove the tick's body completely.
Step2 Once you have hold of the tick's body, slowly pull the body of the tick away from the skin, gently pulling it out. You want to avoid leaving the head in the skin of your pet.
Step3 Once you have the tick out, place it in the container so you can dispose of it. If the body is whole, dispose of the tick quickly in case it is still alive. You don't want to risk dropping it and having it on you or your dog again. Nothing more worrisome than a loose tick you don't know what happened to!
Step4 Disinfect the bite area on the dog.
Step5 Clean the tweezers and your hands and anything else that the tick or tweezers came in contact with.
Correct way of getting rid of Dog-Ticks - By spayne7

How to keep dog warm in cold weather

2009-04-28T22:56:00.000-07:00

Be a responsible pet owner and take care of your pet.

Tips & Warnings
Be a responsible pet owner

If you have a dog that is chained up, make sure the shelter is adequate. The animal cannot look for his own shelter.

A pet is a responsibility which should not be taken lightly.

Step1 If your pet resides indoors, protect the animals feet when you take him outside in sub zero weather. He is not accustomed to the freezing ground. You can provide them with shoes or spray PAM on their feet. The PAM seals their feet, locks out the cold and prevents their feet from cracking. Your local pet store should offer expensive alternatives.
Step2 In the wild, animals naturally seek shelter during harsh weather. As a pet owner this responsibility resides with you. In addition to providing the shelter, you can put a light bulb inside to ease the bite of the cold for your pet. Also, put appropriate bedding in the shelter. If your animal has limited mobility, take extra precaution to ensure the shelter is adequate. You can gauge this by placing a thermometer inside the sleeping area.
Step3 Ensure your animal has a continuous supply of fresh water and an adequate, daily food supply. Placing the water inside an enclosed area will prevent it from freezing. A light bulb placed near the bowl will also help to prevent the water from freezing. Avoid metal bowls, which freeze faster than plastic bowls.
How to keep dog warm in cold weather - By Time2Compose

Information of how to know your dog has gone blind

2009-04-28T22:52:00.000-07:00

My dog developed diabetes, and as a result lost her sight to cataracts. We weren't sure at first just how much she could see because dogs are very adaptable. But this little informal test told us just how little she was actually able to see.

Tips & Warnings
Please remember that your trusted vet is the best choice for diagnosis of problems with your dog, and the correct care for her.

Step1 Choose a room that is fairly evenly lit so you will not be casting shadows that could catch the dogs attention. She may still be able to see light and shadow.
Step2 Have treats and a few cotton balls in hand, and bring your dog into the room with you.
Step3 Have her face you and give her a few treats. She should be looking at you and watching for the next treat.
Step4 Without making any gesture that she might see, drop a cotton ball in front of her. We use a cotton ball because it won't make a sound when it hits the floor. She would respond to a sound. We're looking for a response to sight.
Step5 If she follows the motion of the cotton ball downward, she probably still has her sight. If she has lost her vision, she will most likely continue to look at you, waiting for a treat, and not even realize the cotton ball fell.
(Information of how to know your dog has gone blind - By coloringk)

Benefits of Dog Heartworm Pills

2009-04-28T22:50:00.000-07:00

Heartworm is one of the most common parasites infecting domestic canine companions. If a dog becomes infested with heartworm, he can become gravely ill and treatment can be very costly. Preventing heartworm infestation is a much simpler alternative than treating the disease, and can be done for just pennies a day.

Significance
Heartworm is one of the most damaging parasites infecting domestic dogs. Heartworm is passed onto dogs through bites from infected mosquitoes, with the larvae settling into the heart. The larvae mature into adult worms, filling the heart and blocking the valves. This causes the heart to strain immensely in an effort to pump blood throughout the body. Hundreds of pets succumb to heartworm every year, even though this infestation is entirely preventable. A simple course of heartworm medicine, given throughout the year, can prevent dogs from becoming infested in the first place, and should be a regular part of any pet care routine.
Identification
Heartworm pills are produced in a number of different forms, although they all serve to kill off larvae and prevent them from maturing into adult worms inside the dog's body. The most popular type of heartworm treatment is given in the form of a large, chewable tablet. These tablets are given once per month throughout the year to prevent infestation. Treatment also comes in the form of small, hard tablets that can be mixed into the dog's food for picky pets. A liquid form of heartworm medication is also available, although it is far less popular and more difficult to use than the tablet forms.
Benefits
Preventing heartworm is invaluable to the health and well-being of dogs. Heartworm prevention should be discussed with your veterinarian at your puppy's first checkup. Most vets will begin heartworm prevention as early as 12 weeks, and recommend that pills are given on a regular schedule to help prevent infestation. If a dog does happen to contract heartworm, treatment to kill off the adult worms and larvae can be administered, and the dog returned to a preventative routine upon completion.
Prevention/Solution
Preventing heartworm is much easier than trying to cure the disease. Heartworm infestation is much more common in warm areas with a long mosquito season, although treatment should be given year-round to prevent infection. There are a number of medications that can be applied externally to your pet to help keep mosquitoes at bay. Used in conjunction with these topical solutions, heartworm pills can help keep your pet safe and healthy for life.
Warning
Consult your veterinarian before starting any heartworm treatments. If a pet is already infested with heartworm, administering pills can cause the adult worms to die off in large numbers and be deadly. Many breeds, especially herding breeds, such as Rough and Smooth Collies and Shetland Sheepdogs, are highly sensitive to the active ingredient in heartworm pills and are susceptible to serious adverse reactions.
(Benefits of Dog Heartworm Pills - By Stevee)

Function of pet Dental Insurance

2009-04-28T22:41:00.000-07:00

Dental procedures can be extremely expensive, but pet dental care is just as important as human dental care. Pet dental insurance policies can save pet owners money, time, and frustration. Dental insurance for pets was once difficult to find, but it is now widely available. Most major pet insurance providers offer dental plans, and sometimes dental insurance can be added on to an existing pet insurance policy for a relatively small extra premium.

Significance
Pets have teeth, just like humans, and those teeth require care. This is especially true as animals get older. Poor dental care can result in broken, infected, and damaged teeth, and can lead to gum disease. Gum and periodontal disease can result in bacteria being released into the blood, which can lead to heart problems and a variety of other serious medical diseases. Buying a pet dental insurance plan is an excellent way to ensure your pet's mouth and body remain healthy. Moreover, dental insurance typically saves money in the long-term, as one visit to the veterinarian to repair a mouthful of cavities can cost hundreds, or even thousands of dollars.
Types
Pet dental insurance may be a part of your pet's medical insurance, may be offered as a bonus plan or extra, or may need to be purchased separately from your pet medical insurance policy. Some pet dental plans only cover emergency dental care, while other types only provide coverage for regular cleanings and maintenance work. Some types of dental insurance allow reimbursement for both types of care. The type of pet dental insurance you purchase is a complicated decision, and should depend on the needs of your pet, their current dental and physical health, and your budget limitations.
Benefits
Pet dental insurance can provide you with peace of mind knowing that your pet's teeth, gums, and overall health are protected. If a serious problem occurs, such as damage to your pet's teeth or an oral infection, you will not be forced to watch your pet suffer while you try to come up with the hundreds or thousands of dollars needed to have your pet treated. Moreover, pet dental insurance will enable you to protect and maintain more than just your pet's mouth. Many illnesses stem from poor oral hygiene, and Penn researchers have even discovered higher levels of inflammatory substances in the blood of dogs with poor oral care. As increasing evidence points to the mouth as a main source of infection and inflammation that can result in illness throughout the body, the importance of regular cleanings and quality dental care becomes obvious.
Function
Pet dental insurance plans work in the same way that dental plans for humans work. Usually, only some types of procedures are covered. The difference between pet dental plans and human dental plans is that a veterinarian, not a dentist or other professional, treats pets when there is a problem with their teeth. The cover levels, benefits, and features of your pet's dental plan will depend on what policy you choose. Generally, a veterinarian will see your pet, copays and other out-of pocket expenses will be required up front, and the veterinarian will bill the insurance provider directly for the remainder of the balance owed. In some cases, you are responsible for paying for the entire vet visit up-front, and will then submit a form to the insurance provider for reimbursement of covered expenses. Most pet insurance policies have deductibles that need to be met before cover begins, similar to the deductibles included with most human insurance plans.
Warning
Most medical insurance plans for pets do not cover dental procedures, but check your existing plan to see if dental work is covered before taking out an additional policy. Make certain you read the fine print included with your policy, and ask about any cover limitations or hidden fees before agreeing to any policy. Some pet dental insurance plans only cover emergency treatment, while other plans only provide cover for routine care and cleanings. These cover limits are not always obvious, and you need to discuss any concerns about your pet's cover with your insurance provider before agreeing to take out a policy. Also, check to make certain your current veterinarian is listed on your policy. Some policies only allow you to visit certain vets, and if you are attached to your pet's current vet, you need to be sure your visits to his or her office will be covered.
(Function of pet Dental Insurance - By SKetcham )

keep away from Swine Flu

2009-04-27T22:47:00.000-07:00

Swine flu, which was initially only transmitted from pigs to humans, is now traveling through human to human contact, and is one of the most deadly of the flu viruses.

You might have noticed people wearing surgical masks in areas of Mexico to avoid the Swine Flu epidemic. At least 100 people have died from Swine Flu infection in Mexico and clusters of swine flu are found in areas all over the United States as well. The Swine Flu is currently under investigation by the Center for Disease Control.

Swine flu symptoms include runny nose, muscle aches, lethargy, lack of appetite, fever over 101 and sudden onset. It is difficult to distinguish from other flu types, and does require a diagnosis.

Researchers are not yet sure if antiviral medicines such as Tamiflu or Relenza may remain effective against swine flu, although these antiviral medicines are working against the current strain. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention(CDC) are currently in the process of developing a vaccine to protect against the Swine Flu.

The Swine Flu is a combination of four known strains including Avian flu, Human Influenza and two other viruses. This new strain of influenza is not only extremely contagious but also deadly, however, there are flu pandemic preparation measures you can take to ensure you do not get the Swine flu.

Tips & Warnings
You can get swine flu by being around infected pigs

You can get swine flu from infected people

The Swine Flu is related to the Bird Flu Pandemic.

There is currently no Avian Influenza Vaccine or Swine Flu Vaccine

Avian Flu Treatment and Swine Flu Treatment involve antiviral and preventative measures.

You cannot get swine flu from eating pork

Do not visit a hospital if your flu symptoms are normal or not severe as this may help spread the Swine Flu epidemic

Step1 Stay Home
If you are sick or have any flu-like symptoms, stay home. Do not go to school or work. Swine flu symptoms may mimic those of regular flu and cold symptoms.
Step2 Contain Your Cough
Cough or sneeze into the crook (inside elbow) of your arm. This way you do not transfer the germs to your hands and then to every object you touch. Swine flu is very contagious, and can spread easily by touching an infected object and then touching your face. A flu mask will help you avoid infection in enclosed spaces.
Step3 Wash Hands Frequently
Wash hands constantly to avoid swine flu. Anything you touch may be affected, so keeping hands clean will help you avoid infection.
Step4 Hand Sanitizer
Carry hand sanitizer with you. If you have things others have touched, use your hand sanitizer to avoid swine flu infection. In addition, avoid shaking hands or other hand to hand contact whenever possible. Also avoid kissing on the cheek or other face to face contact as a greeting method.
Step5 Public Facilities
Touch public handles and pens as little as possible. These are loaded with germs that may carry the swine flu virus.
Step6 Air Travel
When you fly, be most diligent about following these guidelines. Transferring any flu, including swine flu, is most likely in close quarters like an airplane.
Step7 Clean Your Produce
The life span of a virus is different for each and can vary from as much as 48 hours to 100 years depending on the hardiness of the virus. Although there have been no known cases of swine flu transmission through fruit and vegetable consumption, there does seem to be some concern about the possibility. The best bet is to buy locally grown fruits and vegetables if possible. Make sure you wash your fruits and vegetables with water, and soak for greater effectiveness. Washes and using chlorinated rinses have not been proven to work. So far there have been no cases of swine flu transmission through fruits and vegetable sources.
Step8 Avoid Crowds
Stay out of crowds as much as possible. Close proximity to other people will heighten your chances of to get swine flu. Wear a surgical mask in areas of high traffic concentration. Try to stay at least 3-6 feet away from people.
Step9 Eating and Drinking
Do not eat or drink after others without complete sanitization of containers or utensils. Swine flu can be transmitted by contact with infected eating utensils.
Step10 Visit Your Doctor
Get to a doctor immediately if you develop symptoms of swine flu including high fever and body aches. Swine flu can be deadly, and it is imperative to get to a physician immediately if you think you have swine flu symptoms and think you might have contracted the swine flu virus. Both Tamiflu and Relenza are antiviral medicines that are currently effective against some strains of Swine Flu. These medicines should be taken within 36 hours of flu infection for maximum effectiveness.
keep away from Swine Flu - By Write Now,

Cocker Spaniels health problems

2009-04-26T21:09:00.000-07:00

A Cocker Spaniel can be a member of your family for many years. As such, it is important to learn about the medical conditions that are common in Cocker Spaniels. While some of these medical conditions are treatable, others may become so severe over time that the only humane way to treat them is euthanasia.

Significance

Some of the medications a Cocker Spaniel may have to take courtesy of Caddo Animal Medical Clinic
Medical conditions in a Cocker Spaniel can make the dog miserable and can have a great financial impact on the owner. Many of the medical conditions require life long care and treatment, including strict medication regimens. Additionally, many of the medical conditions of this breed make showing the dog or breeding the dog unethical and, in some cases, impossible.
Time Frame

X-rays courtesy of Holloway Animal Clinic
Most of the medical conditions that are associated with Cocker Spaniels are present from birth but, many of them won't be noticeable until the dog is at least two years old. Hip dysplasia, for example, becomes evident when the dog is older, over-fed or over-exercised. A few of the medical conditions, including lip fold pyoderma, juvenile cataracts and atopic dermatitis, can affect young dogs.
Types

Juvenile cataracts courtesy of VetCare
Eye problems, such as juvenile cataracts and progressive retinal atrophy, are hereditary. Epilepsy, hemophilia, lip fold pyoderma and atopic dermatitis are present from birth. These conditions can be treated with a strict medication regime. Hip dysplasia and slipping stifles are bone conditions that become progressively worse as the dog ages. Ear infections are one common medical condition that can be prevented and sometimes cured with good hygiene.
Identification

Ear infection in a Cocker Spaniel courtesy of Holloway Animal Clinic
Many of the medical conditions of Cocker Spaniels can be diagnosed at a regular checkup with the veterinarian. Alert the veterinarian to any changes in the way the dog walks as this can signal a number of medical conditions, including epilepsy, eye conditions or bone conditions. Be on the look out for dry skin and excessively oily skin, frequent eye drainage, foul smelling ears or sores around the dog's mouth. If you notice any of these, contact the dog's veterinarian immediately.
Cocker Spaniels health problems - By L. Kelley

Fleas eliminating in little puppy

2009-04-26T21:06:00.000-07:00

Left untreated, fleas from your new puppy will infest your home and your clothing, and be very difficult to get rid of. Immediately ridding your puppy of his fleas can save you both a lot of hassle and problems later. Flea shampoo and most other flea medications are not safe for pets under 12 weeks of age. There is a lot of evidence to suggest that over-the-counter flea treatments such as collars and shampoo can be very harmful to pets' health and cause long lasting health problems or even death. This article outlines the safest way to rid your puppy of fleas.

Tips & Warnings
Make sure to comb your puppy every day. Fleas will lay eggs and the eggs will hatch incredibly quickly. The more consistent and thorough you are in combing your puppy, the faster you will see results.

Flea shampoo is dangerous to use on a young puppy. Do not use it.

Step1 Bathe your dog with puppy shampoo.
Step2 Towel dry the puppy. If he has fluffy fur, you may also want to allow him to air dry a bit before moving to Step 3.
Step3 Gather your puppy, flea comb and cup of water in one easy-to-reach spot.
Step4 Comb the puppy's fur. Start near the tail and work your way to the face, as this is where the fleas will start going when you begin combing.
Step5 Swish the comb in the glass of water to dislodge the fleas caught inside it.
Step6 Comb your puppy at least once a day every day until you see no more fleas. This process may take a week or two weeks to completely rid the puppy of fleas.
Fleas eliminating in little puppy - By Diana Doherty

Ear clean for your dogs

2009-04-26T20:59:00.000-07:00

How to clean your pets ear safely and effectively.

Tips & Warnings
Never use Q tips, or any cotton tipped applicator; they can push debris back into the ear and block the passage.

Ask your vet for the safest ear cleaner he or she prefers you use on your dog. Some over the counter cleanser contain alcohol, which can be painful to your pet and may sting.

Some breeds of dog are more susceptible to ear infections than others, ask your Veterinarian if your dogs' breed is known for such a thing.

Step1 First you will need an ear cleanser, you can buy one from a pet store or ask your Veterinarian for the kind he/she uses. You will also need cotton balls or a damp paper towel.
Step2 Hold your dogs head firmly with one hand and squeeze the cleanser into the dogs ear with the other.
Step3 Gently massage the cartilage at the base of the ear. This helps get the cleanser into the ear canal and is loosening any dirt and debris that is in the dogs ear. You should hear a swoosh sound.
Step4 Watch out! Dogs love to shake their heads at this point!!
Step5 Now with the cotton ball clean only the filth you see when you look into the ear. Do not dig around inside of the dogs ear, you could poke the ear drum, or push debris farther into the ear. With the damp paper towel, use your index finger to guide it and only clean the debris you see, do not stick your finger into the canal.
Step6 REPEAT with the other ear.
Step7 Depending on how dirty your dogs ears are, you can repeat this once or twice. Depending on the breed of dog you have you may have to clean them more than once a week.
Step8 Once you are finished your dog should shake some more so watch out for any loose ear wax that may come flying your way and you are DONE!!
Ear clean for your dogs - By Gapeto,

Slimming in Senior Dog

2009-04-26T20:49:00.000-07:00

Senior dogs are prone to middle-age spread when their metabolism slows. Aches and pains add to the weight gain by decreasing mobility. The extra weight contributes to other health problems, including breathing, circulatory, renal, endocrine and musculoskeletal disorders. Follow these steps to slim down a senior dog.

Tips & Warnings
Enlist the help of all family members. Extra feedings, table scraps and treats from the well-meaning can sabotage weight loss in the senior dog.

Don't panic if a senior dog rebels against a weight loss regimen by leaving food uneaten. A dog can safely go several days without food.

Step1 Confirm the problem. If the senior dog appears to have no waistline and the ribs are not easily discernible by touch, the dog is overweight. Consult a veterinarian to rule out underlying diseases as the cause of the weight gain.
Step2 Stick to dog food, not people food. Examine the package label. Verify that meat is listed as the first ingredient, rather than grains and fillers. Meat options usually include beef, chicken, turkey, lamb and salmon. Dog foods made specifically for the senior dog are an excellent option. They contain a careful combination of nutrients. Many contain yogurt, which improves the digestive system.
Step3 Lower food intake. Trim the total daily consumption of food by 1/4 to 1/3. Provide it in one feeding. Keep the water bowl full. Water is necessary for adequate digestion.
Step4 Start exercising. Take walks around the block, swim or play fetch. Build up to a daily fitness regimen. The activity will burn calories for the senior dog and owner.
Step5 Hold a weekly weigh-in. Direct the senior dog to the bathroom scale and keep a record. Aim to lose 2 percent of the weight each week. Adjust food intake downward or upward as needed. Once the target weight is reached, hold food intake at the point where the target weight is maintained.
(Slimming in Senior Dog )

Teach your dog shaking

2009-04-24T00:33:00.000-07:00

This is a nice trick to teach your dog, especially if they shed, or have thick undercoats that are difficult to wash. What you are doing is teaching them to shake off water/hair or refrain from shaking (like when you're giving them a bath and applying the shampoo).

Tips & Warnings
If you're doing this in the bathroom, have enough towels nearby to clean the walls, ceiling, etc.

Practice, practice, practice.

Do not attempt to physically restrain the dog from shaking, or force him/her to shake. Simply reward the desired behavior.

Step1 Using the "warm weather" technique, lightly wet the dog, continuously admonishing "no shake". If the dog tries to shake, grab the coller and hold gently and remind "no shake".
Step2 Hold the dog and drench him/her with the hose (avoiding the face/ears). Then let go and say excitedly "ok - shake". The dog should shake natuarally (if not, try tickling the inside of his/her ear gently to help induce the shake response). Then reward/treat the dog eagerly.
Step3 After a few shakes, hold the dog, and admonish again "no shake". The dog should have no urge to shake, and should easily follow this command. Reward/treat immediately.
Step4 Repeat steps 1-3 until the dog will stand there, dripping wet, yet still waiting for the shake command. Also, the dog should shake, even when dry.
Teach your dog shaking By Laura A. Wellington,

Training your dog to step up and down stairs

2009-04-24T00:29:00.000-07:00

One of the most common challenges faced by newly blind dogs is a fear of going up and down stairs. Training your dog to step up and down on command will help build her confidence and help her resume normal activities around the house. You will also find these commands useful when you walk your dog in unfamiliar places.

Tips
Avoid using the command "step down," as many dogs already understand the word "down" to mean "lie down," and may become confused.
Going down stairs requires great trust on the dog's part. Be extremely patient and encouraging, even if it takes numerous tries. Progress to longer stairways only after your dog seems confident on the shorter ones.

Do not try to shove or startle your dog into going down steps.
Punishment can cause blind dogs to become more depressed, anxious or aggressive. If your dog seems very frightened, give her a food treat or verbal praise and call it quits for the day. You may have better luck in a different place on a different day.

Step1 Find a location in your home or neighborhood that has a single step or a short stairway of only two to three steps. If working outdoors, have the dog on a leash.
Step2 Encourage your dog to climb up the step or steps. This will provide her with some information about the physical shape and size of the steps.
Step3 Use a food treat placed under the dog's nose to lure her up the first step, or verbally encourage her as you tap the stair tread with your hand.
Step4 As she reaches up the step, say "step up." Repeat until she has climbed up all the steps if you are working on a short stairway instead of a single step.
Step5 Turn the dog to face the step by luring her around with another food treat under her nose.
Step6 Tap the next lower stair tread with your hand, and lure her down with the food treat.
Step7 As she steps or feels her way down, say "stairs." Repeat until she is at the bottom if you are working on a short stairway.
(Training your dog to step up and down stairs-)

Can Pets Help Keep You Healthy?

2009-04-24T00:11:00.000-07:00

You take good care of your pet. But what’s your pet done for you lately? Scared intruders from your door? Fetched your slippers? Given you a loving nuzzle? People have lots of reasons for owning pets. Now a small but growing body of research suggests that owning or interacting with animals may have the added benefit of improving your health.

People and animals have a long history of living together and bonding. Perhaps the oldest evidence of this special relationship was discovered a few years ago in Israel—a 12,000-year-old human skeleton buried with its hand resting on the skeleton of a 6-month-old wolf pup. “The bond between animals and humans is part of our evolution, and it’s very powerful,” says Dr. Ann Berger, a physician and researcher at the NIH Clinical Center in Bethesda, Maryland.

Today animal companions are more popular than ever. The pet population nationwide has been growing dramatically for nearly a half century, from about 40 million pet cats and dogs in 1967 to more than 160 million in 2006. About two-thirds of U.S. households now own at least one pet.

“When you see how long we’ve had pets in our lives, and how important they are to us today, I think it’s amazing that the study of human-animal interactions is still so new,” says Dr. Sandra Barker, director of the Center for Human-Animal Interaction at Virginia Commonwealth University. “Researchers have only recently begun to explore this wonderful relationship and what its health benefits might be.”

It’s true that scientific study of the human-animal bond is still in its infancy. Several small or anecdotal studies have uncovered intriguing connections between human health and animal interactions. However, more rigorous follow-up studies have often shown mixed results.

“The general belief is that there are health benefits to owning pets, both in terms of psychological growth and development, as well as physical health benefits,” says Dr. James Griffin, a scientist at NIH’s Eunice Kennedy Shriver National Institute of Child Health and Human Development. “But there have been relatively few well-controlled studies. That’s the state of the science, in a nutshell.”

This past year, NIH hosted several meetings to bring together leading experts in the field of human-animal interactions. The investigators discussed findings to date and ways to improve ongoing research.

Some of the largest and most well-designed studies in this field suggest that four-legged friends can help to improve our cardiovascular health. One NIH-funded study looked at 421 adults who’d suffered heart attacks. A year later, the scientists found, dog owners were significantly more likely to still be alive than were those who did not own dogs, regardless of the severity of the heart attack.

Another study looked at 240 married couples. Those who owned a pet were found to have lower heart rates and blood pressure, whether at rest or when undergoing stressful tests, than those without pets. Pet owners also seemed to have milder responses and quicker recovery from stress when they were with their pets than with a spouse or friend.

Several studies have shown that dog owners may get more exercise and other health benefits than the rest of us. One NIH-funded investigation looked at more than 2,000 adults and found that dog owners who regularly walked their dogs were more physically active and less likely to be obese than those who didn’t own or walk a dog. Another study supported by NIH followed more than 2,500 older adults, ages 71-82, for 3 years. Those who regularly walked their dogs walked faster and for longer time periods each week than others who didn’t walk regularly. Older dog walkers also had greater mobility inside their homes than others in the study.

Man’s best friend may help you make more human friends, too. Several studies have shown that walking with a dog leads to more conversations and helps you stay socially connected. And studies have clearly shown that people who have more social relationships tend to live longer and are less likely to show mental and physical declines as they grow older. “It’s hard to walk a dog and not have someone talk to you or interact with you, compared to walking alone,” says Barker.

Other research suggests that pet ownership may hold special benefits during childhood. “When children are asked who they talk to when they get upset, a lot of times their first answer is their pet,” says Griffin, an expert in child development and behavior. “This points to the importance of pets as a source of comfort and developing empathy. In fact, therapists and researchers have reported that children with autism are sometimes better able to interact with pets, and this may help in their interactions with people.”

Several research teams are examining the potential benefits of bringing specially trained animals into clinical settings. These animal-assisted therapies are increasingly offered in hospitals and nursing homes nationwide. Although there is little solid scientific evidence confirming the value of this type of therapy, clinicians who watch patients interacting with animals say they can clearly see benefits, including improved mood and reduced anxiety.

“You can see the difference it makes in so many of these patients when the dog is at their bedside,” says Berger, who works to relieve pain in patients with life-threatening illnesses at the NIH Clinical Center. “Our patients are often here for a long period of time. I think the dogs add a bit of normalcy to a very difficult situation. The dog will sit calmly, and the patients don’t have to talk to anyone. They can just pet. I think this helps with some of the suffering.”

Berger and Barker recently wrapped up a preliminary clinical study looking at how well animal-assisted therapy relieves distress in hospitalized cancer patients coping with pain. The data have not yet been analyzed, but the researchers hope it will serve as a launching point for future investigations.

“I think we’re just at the tip of the iceberg in terms of what we know about the human-animal bond and its potential health benefits,” Barker says. “This area is primed for a lot of research that still needs to be done.”
(Can Pets Help Keep You Healthy?)

Eliminating Skunk Scent with Tomato Juice

2009-04-24T00:05:00.000-07:00

When a dog or cat encounters a skunk, the experience is usually uneventful. However, in some cases, your pet may try to get too friendly with the skunk and end up getting sprayed. While this may cause a great deal of distress to your pet, there are few serious long-term health effects.

In some cases, the skunk spray may cause an irritation of the membranes around the eyes (called conjunctivitis). For this reason, it is usually a good idea to instil an ophthalmic ointment or drops into the eyes. Your veterinarian can recommend the proper medication.

A more serious and upsetting consequence of a skunk encounter to both the pet owner and the pet itself, is the skunk odour. By far, tomato juice remains the best remedy for removing skunk smell. However, to be really effective, tomato juice must be left on the coat to dry, and only then rinsed off. If dousing your pet with tomato juice doesn't appeal to you, you can try a commercial neutralizing solution (Skunk-Off®) available from your veterinarian.

Because of other potential problems associated with being sprayed by a skunk (e.g. bite wounds, irritated eyes, rabies hazard, etc.) it is best to contact your veterinarian for advice if your dog or cat meets up with one.

(Eliminating Skunk Scent with Tomato Juice)

Identifying Early with Cat(Pets) Pain

2009-04-20T16:20:00.000-07:00

While most people know what pain is, few understand it, especially pain in animals.

There are many misconceptions about pain and animals. For example, because a pet is not moaning or crying out does not mean it is free ofpain. Most animals (unlike humans) are quite long-suffering and less vocal about their pain. From a survival point of view, it is more to their advantage to suffer quietly so as not to draw the attention of predators to themselves. Similarly, because a cat is purring does not mean that it is content. On the contrary, cats may purr if upset, afraid or in pain. It is also wrong to assume that pets do not feel pain the same way we do. Based on physiological and neurological studies, it has been shown that animals feel pain in very much the same way that we do.

For these and other reasons, the veterinarian and the pet owner must look carefully to determine whether or not an animal is in pain. There are certain indications or signs that one can look for. For example, certain behavioural responses may suggest pain. Vocalization (crying out, whimpering, growling, etc.) can be an indication of existing pain. Commonly a pet will retreat from the family or try to hide and be left alone. The pet may appear uncomfortable, which manifests itself in the form of pacing, restlessness, and repeatedly assuming different positions (e.g. arched back, forelegs held out from chest wall, in a prayer position). Often, an animal in pain will pant excessively. Some may growl or snap if handled, while others may simply grunt or try to get away. There may be a reluctance to move. Frequently, there may be a decrease or lack of appetite, listlessness or lethargy, and decreased personal hygiene (especially in cats).

Body language can be very important. For example, if there is localized pain, the animal may lick or bite at the area that is painful. If it has a broken leg or paw, it will try to hide the leg by tucking it underneath itself. These animals will also limp or not bear any weight on the affected limb. If there is abdominal pain, some dogs will stretch out and assume a praying position (called a "posture of relief"). There are also clinical signs that veterinarians look for that tell them that an animal is in pain. Dilated pupils, increased heart and respiratory rate and increased blood pressure indicate the presence of pain. Sometimes signs are not well correlated with pain since like people, cats and dogs have different thresholds for pain tolerance. Some are much more stoic than others.

Analgesics (i.e. painkillers) are used frequently and routinely in veterinary medicine, not only for the comfort of the patient, but to simplify handling of the pet as well. Studies have also shown that patients recover more rapidly if pain is controlled or alleviated.

The greatest benefit arises when medication is given preemptivley, that is, before the pain occurs. This prevents a firing-up of the pain receptors, and allows us to control pain using lower doses of medication more effectively.

Pet owners should learn to recognize the signs of pain in their pets. However, painkillers should never be administered without first consulting a veterinarian. Many painkillers (e.g. ibuprofen, naproxen, acetaminophen) can be extremely toxic while others, such as ASA or acetylsalicylic acid aspirin, need to be administered with extreme caution.

Human medications generally contain much more medecine dosage per tablet than is safe, so it is important that these medications be kept out of reach of pets at home. Bottles should not only be securely closed, but also kept in locked cupboards since pets have been known to chew the lids off of bottles left within their reach, resulting in poisoning.

(Identifying Early with Cat Pain)

Cat First Aid for burns

2009-04-20T16:17:00.000-07:00

Since most animals have a natural fear of fire, most pets are burned because of human carelessness. Frequently, burns involve the paws and are caused by harsh chemicals or by stepping on hot surfaces. Cats are particularly susceptable to pad damage if they jump up on a hot stove plate, or contact cleaner residues during housekeeping. Make sure to keep cats out of the room or when cooking or cleaning is underway or if they are in the room, keep a careful eye on them! Occasionally, pets are accidentally scalded with hot water or burnt with commercial hair dryers. Some pets are burned when they chew on electric cords or lick at caustic chemicals.

Burns caused by heat, chemicals, radiation, or electricity lead to tissue injury. Superficial burns, while quite painful, are generally not serious. On the other hand, deep burns can be serious and may even result in death due to shock, loss of body fluids, and infection.

Burns can be difficult to detect because a pet's hair coat may mask the damage to the underlying tissues. Usually, a superficial burn is characterized by pain, singed hair that does not pull out easily, and reddened skin.

A deep burn, on the other hand, tends to be less painful, since the nerve endings have been destroyed, and the patient is depressed or in shock. The skin may appear normal, or it may appear burned of off colour (grayish) and the hair pulls out easily.

When a superficial burn occurs, one should never apply butter, fat, grease, or ointments. Instead, immerse the affected area in cool to lukewarm water as soon as possible to prevent heat from penetrating deeper into the tissue and causing further damage. Gently pat the area dry, cover the area loosely with a clean, moist bandage if possible and then contact your veterinarian immediately.

For deep burns, soak a towel or cloth with cold water and apply it to the burned area as quickly as possible. Keep it well soaked until veterinary assistance is available. Keep the patient warm and quiet and transport the patient to the veterinarian as soon as possible.

Do not give any medications without first consutlting your veterinarian. If the patient is conscious and not vomiting, and if there will be a dalay in transport, it is possible that your veterinarian may suggest administration of a solution (in small amounts only) of a half-teaspoon of salt and a half-teaspoon bicarbonate of soda to a litre of water. Do not give any medications without consulting your veterinarian. If more than 50 per cent of the body has been burned, the chances for recovery are low.

For chemical burns, wash the affected area with copious amounts of tap water and, if available, apply an appropriate antidote (usually marked on the product label). To keep your pet from chewing the affected area, see your veternarian as quickly as possible.

(Cat First Aid for burns)

Too much exposure can be harmful to your cat (pet)

2009-04-20T16:10:00.000-07:00

Too much exposure to sunlight can be harmful not only to humans but to animals as well. In fact, veterinarians have started to notice an increase in the number of skin diseases that animals develop because of too much exposure to sunlight.

Animals possess natural protection from the sun's rays. Their hair coat physically blocks out solar rays and protects their skin from harmful ultra-violet light. Many animals also have heavily pigmented skin with an abundance of melanocytes, the cells that help to protect the skin from the sun's damaging rays. Animals, unlike some humans, also have the common sense to avoid direct sunlight.

As a result, sunburns and sun-related skin problems tend to occur infrequently in animals, but they do occur. However, for sun damage to occur in pets, a combination of factors must come into play. For example, if the skin is poorly pigmented or lacks pigmentation, it is at high risk. Furthermore, a sparse hair coat or areas of the body that are hairless are also more susceptible. These sensitive areas must be regularly and frequently exposed to the sun in order to cause skin diseases.

The sun's ultraviolet radiation can cause a number of skin problems in pets. Sunburn, which is actually an inflammation of the skin, can occur in pets. Certain breeds of dogs (such as Dalmatians and white bull terriers) and white cats, are highly susceptible. Certain parts of the body, such as the nose and ears, are also more sensitive than others. Pets that have been recently groomed, have a thinner and less protective hair coat and are, therefore more succeptible. Repeated sunburns can eventually lead to malignant skin cancer.

You can take safety precautions to minimize the risks the sun's rays pose to your pets. If practicality permits, apply a sunscreen to those parts of your pet's skin that are not pigmented and/or have little or no hair. In many cases, this may be impractical since the pet will immediately lick it off. Keep your pet out of direct sunlight during the hottest part of the day when the sun is strongest (10 a.m. to 4 p.m.). Whenever possible, provide shade and do not clip your pet's hair coat, especially for the summer. Remember that the hair coat acts as insulation, keeping cold out during the winter and cooling the pet in the summer (pets "sweat" by panting). The hair also acts as a natural barrier, protecting the skin from the sun.

If you suspect that your pet has a sun-related skin problem, you should consult your veterinarian to make sure it is not serious.
Too much exposure can be harmful to your cat (pet)

Steroids with your cat

2009-04-20T16:04:00.000-07:00

Prednisone is an excellent medication that belongs to a family of drugs commonly known as steroids, corticosteroids or glucocorticoids. It is a highly effective drug that is used in the treatment of a wide variety of medical problems, including rheumatism, arthritis, allergic and immune-mediated diseases, shock, trauma, swelling of brain and spinal cord, inflammation of the skin and joints, and for supportive care during stressful conditions. Corticosteroids work by inhibiting the formation of chemicals called prostaglandins, which are responsible for causing pain and inflammation.

Prednisone and other similar corticosteroids such as prednisolone seem at times to be "miracle drugs". In dogs and cats suffering from severe allergies, they dramatically reduce itching and scratching. In crippled, arthritic dogs, they appear to make puppies out of old dogs by restoring mobility and reducing joint pain. Unfortunately, none of this comes without a price.

Corticosteroids affect virtually every tissue in the body and have many side effects. Most common are increased thirst and urination, as well as panting. Other side effects may include increased appetite, weakness, muscle wasting, lethargy, weight loss, lack of appetite, vomiting and diarrhea. More serious side effects, such as bloody vomiting and diarrhea, pancreatitis and liver disease can also be caused by corticosteroids.

Corticosteroids slow wound healing, suppress inflammation, reduce fever, and lower resistance to infection. Long-term use may suppress the body's natural steroid production in the adrenal glands and lead to serious metabolic imbalances (called Cushing's syndrome). They also suppress the immune system and reduce the effectiveness of antibiotics.

Since urinary tract infections (e.g. bladder infections) commonly occur with long-term steroid use (e.g. treatment of arthritis or allergies), it is recommended that a urinalysis be performed every six months on pets that are in long-term therapy.

Because of the potential for harmful side effects with long-term steroid use, veterinarians always strive to have pet owners use the lowest possible effective dose on their pets. Whenever possible, patients are placed on an alternate-day dosage schedule in order to minimize side effects (given one day, skipped the next). If treatment with prednisone and other steroids is terminated abruptly, these animals become particularly vulnerable to stress. For this reason, withdrawal from corticosteroids such as prednisone should always be done gradually by reducing the dose rate in order to allow the body to recover slowly over several weeks.

Steroids should never be administered without first consulting your veterinarian.

Steroids with your cat

Spaying in Cats

2009-04-19T03:26:00.000-07:00

Spaying is the term commonly used for an "ovariohysterectomy", the surgical removal of the entire reproductive system including the uterus and ovaries of a female dog or cat. (The term neuter applies to both sexes and can be used to denote spaying in females and castration in males)

Spaying removes many of the problems associated with pregnancies. Spaying is still the only safe and reliable method of birth control in both dogs and cats. With humane societies and animals shelters overwhelmed with homeless and abandoned animals, spaying is an important way in which we can be responsible pet owners and not contribute to the problem of pet overpopulation.

Spaying a pet will ensure that the problems associated with heat cycles are avoided. For example, in dogs, the bloody discharge from the vulva, which can persist for two to three weeks during each heat period, can result in bloodstains around the house. This problem is further complicated by the fact that they must be kept indoors or be closely supervised when outdoors to prevent the unwelcome approaches of males. In cats, the excessive vocalization and behaviour associated with heats is also avoided if spaying is done. If not mated, female dogs may also experience "false pregnancy", a condition wherein they behave as if pregnant, complete with whining, restlessness and lactation even though no pregnancy has occurred.

Female dogs run an increased risk of life-threatening medical problems later on in life if they are not spayed. For example, there is an alarmingly high risk of contracting uterine infections in older females that are not neutered. These infections are often life threatening and in many cases the treatment of choice is surgical removal of the uterus.

Spaying a dog before its first heat greatly reduces the risk of mammary tumours. Studies have shown that the chances of breast cancer in female dogs increases significantly with each successive heat period until the age of two years. After two years of age, spaying does not really make any difference to the incidence of breast cancer.

Spaying will not make a pet fat or lazy. Obesity in pets is usually the result of overeating and a lack of exercise. Similarly, spaying does not change a pet's personality or temperament, whether for good or for bad.

Spaying is a very safe surgical procedure. Many owners delay the operation because of a concern for their pet's well being (i.e. aesthetic and/or surgical risks). Discuss these concerns with your veterinarian.

About - Spaying in Cats

Cat_ Hair Coat Shedding

2009-04-19T03:22:00.000-07:00

While excessive hair shedding is a common complaint heard among pet owners, in most cases, the shedding is usually normal. An understanding of why dogs and cats lose their hair coat, and what causes shedding, goes a long way towards explaining why they shed hair all the time.

Dogs and cats do not grow hair continuously, but rather in cycles. Each cycle has a growing phase, a transitional phase and a resting phase. These hair cycles are controlled by such factors as nutrition, hormones, state of health, but most importantly, the amount of light (called photoperiod) and changes in the surrounding temperature. Dogs in northern latitudes tend to shed their hair coats twice a year, in the spring and fall, as the outside temperature and the amount of daylight changes. As the weather turns colder or warmer, and as the period of daylight gets shorter or longer, the brain sends a message to the hair follicles to increase activity. Hair growth tends to be maximal in summer and minimal in winter. Pets that are kept primarily indoors tend to experience changes in both temperature (going in and out of the house) and light (artificial lights turned on and off) all year round. As a result, these pets tend to shed their hair, sometimes profusely, throughout the year.

If you suspect that your pet's hair loss is abnormal, you should first consult your veterinarian. If a thorough physical examination indicates that your pet is healthy, steps can be taken to minimize the effects of shedding. Diet is very important to the health of the skin and hair coat. Supplements such as cod liver oil are unnecessary if a complete and balanced diet is fed. If the diet is questionable, it is best to change over to one that is well- balanced. Nutritional supplements such as omega fatty acids can help reduce shedding if the cause of the shedding is related to a fatty acid deficiency.

Daily brushing is good for the hair coat and will remove those hairs that would normally fall out. From a housekeeping point of view, it is better to have the hairs come out on the brush than around the house.

Frequency of bathing and the type of shampoo used can also factor into the amount of shedding that occurs. Using a human-type shampoo, for example, can cause excessive shedding because these shampoos can be quite harsh to a pet's skin and perfumes can cause hypersensitivity reactions. Bathing too frequently can dry out the hair coat and cause excessive shedding.

Stress can also play a role in hair shedding. It is quite common for dogs and cats to start losing excessive amounts of hair during a visit to the veterinarian. This is because of the effects of the stress hormones that are released into the bloodstream. The coat is often "blown" when a female goes through the pregnancy/birth/nursing cycle.

(Cat_ Hair Coat Shedding )

Why Cat Can survive falls from high ?

2009-04-17T18:00:00.000-07:00

Cats seem to have an uncanny ability to survive falls from high places. For example, cats have been known to survive falls of up to 32 stories. By contrast, dogs rarely survive falls of more than six stories. Humans usually die when they fall from such heights.

In a study of cats that had fallen from up to 32 stories, an interesting finding emerged: while the rate of injury in cats seemed to increase linearly depending on the length of the fall, after seven stories, the rate of injury seemed to level off! In other words, the survival rate and severity of injuries were no more severe in a cat that fell seven stories than in one that fell 32 and in some cases, injuries were even less!

After further study, the reasons for this discrepancy became clear. When a person falls from a building, maximum speed or "terminal velocity" (120 mph) is reached after 32 stories. Cats, on the other hand, appeared to have the unique ability to achieve terminal velocity at 60 mph and after falling only five stories!

Until a cat reaches terminal velocity, it will experience acceleration and tend to reflexively extend its limbs, making it more susceptible to injuries. However, when a cat reaches terminal velocity, its vestibular system (i.e. the organs of balance) become less stimulated, causing the cat to relax. It will then orient its limbs more horizontally (splay-legged), thereby increasing air drag in much the same way a parachute does. In this posture, the force of impact also appears to become more evenly distributed.

Cats have an excellent sense of balance and most are unlikely to lose their balance and fall off a balcony. Unfortunately, falls from high-rise apartments do occur with some frequency. The term "High-rise Syndrome" (HRS) is used to describe traumatic injuries resulting from falls of more than two stories in cats and more than one story in dogs. According to veterinarians, the most common injury in cats with HRS is chest trauma, which is also the leading cause of death in falls. By contrast, head injury and internal haemorrhage are the leading cause of death in humans. Most dogs with HRS are usually euthanised by owners, often because of the high cost of treatment.

The types of injury and the survival rate after a fall depend to a great extent on both the height of the fall and the surface on which an animal lands. Other factors include the position of the animal at the time of landing, any obstacles that might break the fall, and the amount of air drag while falling. While humans invariably die after falls of more than six stories, the survival rate in dogs and cats that are treated is 99 per cent and 90 per cent respectively.

Because of the frequency with which High-Rise Syndrome occurs, apartment dwellers should take care to keep their pets properly restrained if they are permitted access to a balcony. For example, using a harness on a cat or small dog and supervising their stays on the porch can prevent this problem from occurring. Better yet, dogs and cats are best kept away from balconies altogether.

( Why Cat Can survive falls from high ?)

Weight loss program for cats (pets)

2009-04-17T17:58:00.001-07:00

The single most important step in any weight-reduction program is the acknowledgement that obesity is unhealthy and that weight-reduction is necessary. Unless an owner is convinced that obesity is dangerous to their pet's health, the commitment for weight reduction will be incomplete and the program will be doomed to failure.

The aim of any weight reduction program is to decrease the caloric intake (i.e. less food) and increase energy expenditure (i.e. more exercise). The first step in a successful weight reduction program is to have your pet examined by a veterinarian. The reasons for this are two-fold: (1) to make sure there is no underlying medical reason for the obesity, and (2) to make sure your pet can safely be put on a diet.

Once a veterinarian has examined your pet, it should be weighed and a goal should be set for how much weight is to be lost within a specific period of time. Ideally, your pet should be placed on a reducing diet (available from your veterinarian). These diets are balanced rations that have all the necessary nutrients your pet needs, but less calories than full rations. Commercially available "light" or calorie-reduced diets are good for maintaining weight loss or preventing obesity, but are not recommended for a weight-reduction program.

Three to four small feedings a day actually results in more energy loss (i.e. calories burned) than one or two large feedings. You should feed your pet the required daily ration of food but divide it into three to four small feedings. At the same time, keep your pet out of the kitchen or dining room when meals are being prepared or eaten, since these tend to be the times that begging occurs and snacks are more likely to be fed to pets. Snacks and treats are probably the single most likely cause of obesity in pets and they account for the failure of most weight reduction programs. All snacks and treats including milk bones and table scraps/treats, should be discontinued for the dieting pet.

In addition to following your pet's diet, be sure to take your pet for a brisk walk at least twice daily for 15 to 20 minutes. For cats, schedule at least two 15-minute play times daily.

During the weight reduction program, you should monitor your pet's weight regularly. This involves weighing your pet on a weekly basis and then charting the weight loss on a graph. Weighing should be done at the same time of the day, preferably before feeding.

Pets should be reassessed once the desired weight loss has been achieved so that the pet can be changed from a reducing diet to a maintenance diet. Otherwise, your pet will continue to lose weight.

Once the ideal weight has been reached and to make sure your pet does not regain the lost weight, be sure to avoid in-between meals snacks, make sure your pet gets enough exercise daily, continue to chart your pet's weight on a graph and feed a restricted-calorie diet. Regularly scheduled visits (e.g. every three months) to the veterinarian to monitor your pet's health and weight may help prevent relapses.

Weight loss program for cats (pets)

About pets (cat) Flea bite allergy

2009-04-17T17:55:00.000-07:00

Flea Allergy Dermatitis (FAD) also termed flea-bite hypersensitivity, is an allergic skin reaction to flea saliva. It can occur in both dogs and cats when fleas bite them. Dogs and cats rarely get this form of allergy before six months of age. Usually, the age of onset is around three-to-six years of age. The primary clinical signs of this skin disease are severe itching, biting (corn cob nibbles), and scratching, usually involving the hind end, especially at the base of the tail or inside the thighs. Cats often have an itchy patch over the base of the tail or in their thighs, but may also scratch around the head and neck region.

Diagnosis is by physical examination, and in cats, it may also be associated with an increased eosinophil (a type of blood cell) count. Note that in cats, it can be difficult to find fleas or flea dirt, especially in longhaired breeds. Some cats are exquisitely sensitive, and even one or a few fleas can cause significant itchiness and skin lesions, so there just might not be few if any to be found on them.

This allergic dermatitis is managed by eliminating exposure to adult fleas and by providing symptomatic therapy to help increase pet comfort while inflammation in the skin subsides. Flea control is accomplished by using an adulticide (i.e. a product that kills adult fleas), such as a flea powder, spray, topical agent, oral preparation or foam. Flea shampoos tend to be minimally effective in preventing fleas since most of the insecticide in the shampoo is washed off with the final rinse, but does provide a quick kill of resident fleas.

There are currently several topical adulticides available from your veterinarian that are given orally, are injected, or applied directly onto the pet and that have been shown to be highly effective and safe to apply. Thorough control of fleas may include environmental treatments. In addition to the home, outdoor areas need to be treated in warm seasons. There is no cure for flea-bite hypersensitivity itself, so as long as fleas are present, the pet will have problems. Those pets that are affected may also become more reactive as time goes on. Medications may also be needed to help soothe the irrated skin and clear up any secondary infection (dermatitis). Your veterinarian should be consulted to determine which treatment option is best for your pet based on its lifestyle, activity level, and environmental contacts.

Note that fleas can transmit a type of tapeworm intestinal parasite, so a stool sample sould be checked from flea-infested patients to make sure that they are not afflicted with this worm as well.

About pets (cat) Flea bite allergy

About oral health in Cat (pets)

2009-04-17T17:53:00.000-07:00

Periodontal disease (also known as Apyorrhoea@) is caused by harmful bacteria in the mouth. Studies show that up to 85 per cent of all dogs and cats over four years of age have some degree of periodontal disease.

Whether or not your pet gets periodontal disease depends on what it eats, how much chewing it does, the presence of other diseases, the effectiveness of its immune defence mechanisms, and the level of dental care it receives. A healthy dog or cat mouth should be odour-free, and contain healthy, white, even teeth with pink, glistening gums that are tightly adherent to the teeth.

In the first stages of periodontal disease, the gums become inflamed and red, and there may be a slight accumulation of yellowish tartar to the teeth. If left untreated, this eventually progresses to plaque accumulation, gum recession, loosened teeth, bad breath, inflammation and bleeding of the gums, and eventually loss of teeth, oral infections, and even poor overall health. For example, an abscessed tooth can cause a serious bone infection or result in a fistula (a hole or opening) into the nasal cavity. It is also known that dogs and cats with periodontal disease release a "shower" of bacteria into their blood stream whenever they chew, resulting in a bacteraemia. It is thought that this bacteraemia may result in a life-threatening disease of the heart valves called bacterial endocarditis. Bacteremia can also adversely affect the organs with the highest blood flow, such as the lungs (pulmonary fibrosis and bronchitis), kidneys (interstitial nephritis), liver (hepatopathy) and nervous system (meningitis).

Prevention of periodontal disease can be easily accomplished through proper diet, chewing exercises, and regular brushing of the teeth. Your veterinarian can discuss these various methods of treatment with you.
About oral health in Cat (pets)

About Cat (pets) Bad Breath

2009-04-17T17:51:00.000-07:00

Periodontal disease is characterized by excessive tartar accumulations, bad breath (halitosis), and inflammation of the gums. Every pet develops some degree of periodontal disease. How severe it gets depends on what is eaten, how much chewing occurs, the presence of other diseases, the effectiveness of the immune defense mechanisms, and the level of dental care provided.

Bad breath can also be associated with mouth infections. Stomatitis, a severe inflammation of the soft tissues, periodontitis infection of the tooth supportive tissue), severe cavities (caries), tooth fractures, lodged foreign bodies (stick or bone caught in the gums) and tooth root abscesses can all produce foul breath odours. For these latter conditions, intervention with antibiotics, pain therapy, and surgical repair may be indicated.

To control periodontal disease, preventive oral hygiene is critical. Oral hygiene begins with a proper diet. Feeding your pet a dry pet food is more effective than feeding moist foods in provision of adequate chewing exercise and gum stimulation. Additional cleaning can be achieved by providing dry chew treats, and for dogs, rawhide strips and chew toys. Animal bones are not recommended for chewing because they can break teeth, damage the gums, or cause intestinal upsets.

Some newer diets and treats have integrated tartar control components and these are an excellent adjunct for pets that are prone to oral disease.

A dental home care program should be carried out. Daily care is ideal, but even twice weekly brushing of the teeth and gum has proven benefit. Although dental care is most easily accomplished in the kitten or puppy about the time the permanent teeth erupt, it can be introduced gradually in the older pet as well. The brushing procedure should initially be kept simple and should be followed with a pleasant reward. For example, brushing only one or two teeth with water, and then gradually including more teeth, and finally adding a veterinary dentifrice to the regimen at a later time is a good progression for training. Avoid the use of human toothpastes. Select one of the tuna or other pet-friendly flavours instead. The foaming action of the human paste detergents can cause an upset stomach and if swallowed daily can lead to stomach and gut irritation.

Ideally, a soft infant toothbrush or a brush designed specifically for use in pets should be used. If this is refused, a soft cloth wrapped around the index finger can be used to clean the teeth and gums. Finger brushes (i.e. pediatric rubber fingers with small brushes built-in at the tip, available from your veterinarian) are especially effective. Your veterinarian can also demonstrate the correct method of brushing so that your fingers are safer and brushing is most effective. Note that inner surfaces of the teeth that sit next to the tongue in cats do not need careful brushing because of their naturally abrasive tongue. Your veterinarian may also recommend use of a mouthwash or rinse.

While both baking soda paste and hydrogen peroxide/ water mixtures have been advocated in the past as suitable dentifrices, currently available commercial products are preferred, especially those that include chlorhexidine or stannous fluoride. These are available from your veterinarian as a liquid or toothpaste.

For more information on proper dental hygiene for pets, see your veterinarian.

(About Cat (pets) Bad Breath)

Dose CPR work on Cat (pets) ?

2009-04-17T17:49:00.000-07:00

Cardiopulmonary resuscitation, or CPR, can be used to treat an animal that has stopped breathing or has no heartbeat. It involves mouth-to-nose resuscitation and chest compressions. If you have confirmed that your pet has o heartbeat or breathing has stopped, have someone call your veterinarian or the local emergency clinic for guidance while you begin rescue efforts. Do not attempt to drive and do CPR too! At the veterinary clinic, they have important aids for resuscitation such as adrenalin oxygen, fluids, breathing stimulants, and windpipe intubation to maximize effectiveness of CPR, but until you get there, the basic First Aid techniques described below may save a pet’s life.!

CPR can be broken down into three steps, which are called the ABC's of CPR: Airway, Breathing, and Circulation. It is very important that CPR be performed in this order.

If an animal appears unconscious and motionless, the first step is to establish whether the animal has an open airway. Open the mouth, pull out the tongue, and examine the throat. In long nosed breeds of dogs, a small flashlight may be needed to visualize the throat area. Use your finger to check for and remove any foreign material from the mouth. To protect your fingers in case the pet starts to arouse as you examine and treat the pet, make sure our fingers are never placed in the path of the large teeth at all times. If the animal is conscious, do not examine the mouth as you may get bitten.

The next step is to check for breathing. If the animal is not breathing, you must perform resuscitation. For medium-to-large-sized animals, holding the muzzle closed with your hands should seal the mouth, providing mouth-to-nose resuscitation. For cats and very small dogs, your mouth will seal the pet's mouth when you perform CPR, though commonly, mouth-to-nose resuscitation is used for this size of pet also.

Placing your mouth over the animal's nose and exhaling directly into the nostrils begins resuscitation. After four to five quick breaths, the breathing should be checked again. If the animal does not start breathing after 15 minutes, it is not likely to revive. Small dogs and cats require 20 to 30 breaths per minute, and medium-to-large dogs require 20 breaths per minute. To check whether enough air is being provided (or too much), watch the movement of the chest wall as you provide air. The chest wall should move up and out as if a large normal deep breath is occurring. If the wall moves very high, you are over-inflating the lungs, and a smaller, less vigorous breath should be used. If the chest wall does not move at all, it is possible that a blockage of the windpipe is present.

If there is no heartbeat present, chest compressions should be performed as well. For small dogs, the pet should be lying on its right side. The palm of one hand should be placed over the ribs at the point where the elbows would touch the chest if he was standing, while the other hand is placed beneath the right chest wall.

The chest should be compressed at the rate of five compressions followed by one breath. If there are two people present, one person can perform the breathing, while the other compresses the chest at a rate of three compressions for each breath, then checks for a pulse.

For medium-to-large dogs, the hands must be cupped over each other and the arms kept straight and elbows locked and you need to place your body squarely over the hands in order to get sufficient power to compress the chest properly. The hands should be placed at the point where the left elbow meets the chest. The chest must be compressed at the rate of five compressions followed by one breath. If there are two people present, one person can perform the breathing, while the other compresses the chest at a rate of two to three compressions for each breath, then checks for a pulse. A folded towel placed under the chest will help to keep the pet from shifting during the application of pressure.

Cats should be placed on their side, and one hand should be placed over the backbone near the shoulder blades, while the other hand is cupped around the underside of the chest where, if the cat was standing, the elbows would be. Flat fingers on the underside, and flat thumb applied on the upper side are applied over this region of the heart.

Pulses can be checked by placing a finger over the mid portion of the inside rear limb about half way between the body wall and the stifle, or knee joint. The femoral artery lies within a trough in the muscles here. Ask your veterinarian to teach you this during a routine examination, and practice on a healthy, awake pet.

If done correctly, CPR can save a pet's life. However, pet owners should be aware that even if performed by an experienced veterinarian, CPR is not always successful. However, this should not deter anyone from trying it in an emergency situation. To learn more about CPR, ask your veterinarian.

(Dose CPR work on Cat (pets) ?)

About Neutering Male Cat

2009-04-17T17:46:00.000-07:00

Most pet owners are aware that pets should be neutered, but only some know all the reasons why neutering is beneficial, particularly in male cats. There is some confusion with the terms castration, spaying and neutering. Castration is the surgical removal of the testicles, while spaying is the surgical removal of the uterus and ovaries. The term neutering can refer to either sex.

Male cats are castrated for many reasons. Intact male cats tend to fight one another in order to defend their territory and to secure the opportunity to mate with a female in heat. Fighting can lead to scratch and bite wounds which often become infected, leading to abscesses. Castration is 85 per cent effective in reducing or stopping fighting.

Neutered cats do not have strong territorial instincts and thus make better pets. Conversely, unneutered male cats tend to roam great distances, coming home only to eat and sleep. This roaming increases the chances of being hit by a car or getting into fights. Castration is 90 per cent effective in reducing roaming.

Neutering is beneficial for reasons other than health. Intact male cats mark their territory by spraying a strong-smelling urine on objects such as drapes, furniture and carpeting. Besides being unsanitary, the urine odour and stains are extremely difficult to remove. Castration is 90 per cent effective in stopping urine spraying and also reduces the strong, unpleasant odour of male cat urine.

Intact male cats tend to be poor groomers, causing them to become matted and scruffy-looking. On the other hand, neutered male cats tend to pay more attention to themselves and keep themselves clean.

Neutering does not make cats fat and lazy, or change their personality, and they do not hunt or play any less than unneutered males. Contrary to previously held theories, castration is also not a significant contributing factor in the development of urinary tract problems in cats, particularly one called "Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease" (FLUTD). Many factors seem to contribute to these urinary tract problems rather than a single one.

Finally, there are some very solid environmental and humane reasons for neutering male cats. Allowing a tomcat to mate at will contributes to the existing pet population problems and overburdens humane societies which must ultimately euthanise those animals for which no homes can be found.

For further discussion on the pros and cons of neutering your pet, consult your veterinarian.

(About Neutering Male Cat)

About Air Travel for Cats (pets)

2009-04-15T20:36:00.000-07:00

As a rule, pets travel very well but air travel can be a very stressful and traumatic experience for them. In order to minimize this stress, some guidelines should be followed.

The hazards of air travel are usually not in the actual flying, but rather during the down time when your pet is being loaded or unloaded from the airplane, or when it is waiting. Delays can result in extra time spent on the runways before take-off or after landing. At these times the cargo holds are not pressurized and the surrounding temperature can vary from very hot to very cold. In fact, because of this, some airlines will not permit pets to fly during certain times of the year. For this reason, it is best to contact your airline to make sure that no risk is involved and to confirm that they will accept your pet on the flight.

If your pet is small enough, some airlines will allow you to take your dog or cat on board, provided that the carrier fits under the seat in front of you. Check with your air carrier.

It is also a good idea to have your pet examined by your veterinarian prior to departure to ensure that it is in good health and able to endure the rigours of air travel. Tranquillizers and sedatives are not usually recommended for pets except on the advice of your veterinarian. This is because sedation can result in serious complications. For example, it can inhibit your pet's ability to regulate its body temperature or cause breathing problems.

For the actual flight, make sure that your dog is secure in an approved carrier, purchased either from the airline, a pet store or an animal hospital. Introduce your pet to the crate several weeks before departure to get him or her accustomed to it. Ensure that all the screws on the crate are secured and tight. Carriers should be labelled "Live Animal" and "This End Up" in letters at least 3 cm high. Also tape some identification (name, address, destination) to the crate. Ensure that fresh water will be made available to your pet at some time during or after the flight.

It is best to travel in off-peak hours and on non-stop flights. Ideally, your pet should be last on and first off the plane. Remember to notify the flight attendants that you have a pet on board just in case there is a flight delay.
About Air Travel for Cats (pets)

Why cats always ask to be let outside ?

2009-04-15T20:34:00.000-07:00

Cats that are not spayed (intact females) are particularly likely to do this behaviour when they are in heat. If a cat is spayed, the surgery may result in elimination of the behaviour by removing the source of the female hormones that trigger the male seeking behaviour.

In the case of spayed female cats, it could be that as a younger cat she was used to being outside. Providing lots of attention and toys/playtime during her waking hours may help to keep her interested in the household environment. If she is busy when awake, she is less likely to yearn for action outside the home.

Sometimes outdoor cats come around and call, and this can also trigger this type of behaviour in an indoor cat. This is obviously very difficult to control since it involves a free ranging neighbourhood cat.

(Why cats always ask to be let outside ?)

When your Cats Soiling the Garden

2009-04-15T20:33:00.001-07:00

Cats select soil as the most favored litter substrate. Many deterrents can be tried, but what works for one cat may not work well for another so sometimes it takes a few trials to establish the best strategy.

Because outdoor cats may hunt and thus pick up toxoplasmosis, a parasitic zoonosis it is important to keep yards and gardens clear of cat feces (especially those deposits that are over 24 hours old and thus infectious to humans). This is in order to protect children, or most importantly pregnant women who might be gardening where stool has been deposited. The term zoonosis refers to diseases shared by humans and animals.

An ideal solution is to cover the garden soil with deep layer of mulch including bark chips or strips, gravel or river stones, or other commercial mulch that has components of a large size. Cats love fine sand and soil texture for litter, and do not appear to dig through heavy pebbles or bark chips so these mulches can act as safe deterrents. Unfortunately, the homeowner will incur considerable cost if the garden surface area is large. The layer must be about 4" or 10 cm deep to function properly. Other advantages for the homeowner exist though, and include the proven fact that mulch is effective at reducing weed growth and watering needs, so there are peripheral advantages from the gardeners' perspective.

Fences around gardens have been tried with limited success. A high thin wire mesh fence that is not particularly strong and steady, or a closely spaced picket fence can discourage a cat, but may not be esthetically pleasing or fit into the landscaping theme. Those fences with gaps that can admit a cat will not discourage them.

Booby traps are sometimes set by neighbours, but must be set with care in order not to harm roaming cats. Upside-down mouse traps were often set in the past, but can inadvertently entrap and injure a paw or tail and are not recommended for humane reasons. A safe booby trap consists of a sprinkler system set to water the garden at irregular intervals. This can be a helpful strategy though water restrictions in the local community may make this impractical at certain times of the year.

Another old-fashioned approach was to place mothballs throughout the garden. The smell of them repels the cats, but for environmental and safety reasons, these are not recommended. Young children may think they have found a candy and try to eat one. The active ingredient, naphthaline (NAP) is a polyaromatic hydrocarbon, a known toxin to humans, animals and is classed as a serious environmental pollutant. NAP originates from coal tar and petroleum so if it melts in rainwater, and a cat drinks even small amounts of tainted water, the cat may also experience serious illness because cats are particularly sensitive to the tar and petroleum class compounds. This concern applies also to wildlife such as rabbits and birds.

Another safe, and perhaps the only definitive solution is to let cats out only when their owners are observing them. It is important to make sure cats are not left out on a leash unattended due to a risk of strangulation. Sometimes, they will also slip their collar. A harness is a safer and more comfortable point of attachment for the leash.
(When your Cats Soiling the Garden )

Cat and Newborn Baby

2009-04-15T20:29:00.000-07:00

Cats can have a whole spectrum of responses to a new baby. Curiosity is a big one! They want to sniff and identify this noisy newcomer! This unbridled enthusiasm is the most common reaction to a new baby. Another common response is to ignore the baby. Though we cannot know what cats are really thinking, they may just choose to walk past the baby and pretend they are not there (at least for the first short while). Other cats seem to be jealous (if this is possible for cats), though this is considered a human emotion and we do not like to anthropomorphize. These cats, whatever one terms the emotion they are feeling, will often excessively attention seek with the adults. They may try to jump up on the nursing mother's lap, interjecting themselves right between the baby and mother if allowed! They may also be more affectionate than normal. Note that some cats that are allowed access to a nursery have also been known to secretively pass their bowels under the crib. This has sometimes been attributed to spite or jealousy, but perhaps it is more likely that the cat is stressed, or that the diaper pail by the change table may be letting off odors that stimulate the abnormal behaviour. This has not been closely studied, but as a general rule, it is prudent not to allow the cat unattended access to the nursery.

Other cats are somewhat afraid of the commotion! These cats may choose to hide for a while until a routine is established. It is extremely rare for a cat to show any aggression towards a baby, but never leave a baby or young child alone with your pets, even for a short time, even if they seem to get along well because a baby can roll over onto a cat or cry out loudly, and the resulting startle or fright could potentially lead to an aggressive incident, even in a well-mannered cat. If the cat is unpredictable in their behaviour in any way before the baby arrives on the scene, you will need to be more vigilant and it would be wise to discuss any concerns with your veterinarian before the baby arrives at the home.

There is an old wives tale about cats smothering a baby if allowed to sleep in the crib. The common sense message that lies below this old adage is to prevent access of the cat to the baby's room or crib/pen for the sake of cleanliness, quiet, and to guard against any unusual circumstances. A great solution to a parent's wish to leave the nursery door open or ajar to hear the baby is to install an inexpensive screen door, and leave the wooden door open. This provides air circulation and allows one to hear the baby, while keeping pets outside of the nursery. The door can be removed when the child is older.

Cats that show good tolerance of the new baby in the first few days and weeks sometimes like to sit near the baby and purr as if to share approval of the newcomer! Remember while baby is sleeping to pay lots of attention to the cat to let them know that they are still very special.

A baby will gradually come to show interest in the cat but only once they are through the newborn phase. There are generally no issues regarding acceptance of pets by children growing up with pets, though in the toddler phase, exuberant activity can be stressful, particularly for a senior cat. As always, parental supervision and gentle education of the young child will help them to understand what is appropriate when handling their pet. Parental supervision provides a quick way to reinforce good handling (gentle voice, petting, snuggling but respecting the cat's limits) while providing a way to promptly intervene if hair or tail pulling occurs in a child who does not yet know better.

Make sure your cat is healthy and up to date on vaccinations and has had a physical examination and a stool sample performed to confirm that there are no parasites before there is contact with the baby.

The acceptance of the new baby is best facilitated by a gentle, gradual, low-stress introduction.
(Cat and Newborn Baby )

About Cats Basic Training Method

2009-04-13T02:05:00.000-07:00

What! Training and cats in the same sentence? We all know that cats are independent, can even sometimes be just a touch aloof, and interact with us on their terms. How can such royal pets be trained? Many just assume a cat cannot be trained to perform even simple tasks.

Cats are actually able to learn some basic tasks, but understanding their psychology is important. Cats respond to praise very well, and will learn tasks that bring them a suitable reward. They also have short attention spans; fetching a Frisbee® or stick might keep a Labrador retriever engaged for a whole afternoon, but a typical feline play or training session might continue for 5 to 10 minutes. Playing "catch the furry toy ball" is of real interest to cats, and this is one simple game that can benefit the cat by increasing their exercise and is of high entertainment value. To reinforce their fetching behaviour, a food treat and praise (words, and petting) can be given each time they return the toy. For some cats, the food treat might sidetrack them, so for these cats, just praise and the next toy toss will suffice. Start with short distances and give rewards each time the cat cooperates. Make play sessions very short so that they are less likely to get bored and march off. End the session as soon as you see the first hint of tiring out.

Cats can be taught to relieve themselves using the household human facilities if the owner wishes. Some cats do not appear to take to toilet training, but most can be successfully trained with a lot of patience. The cat appreciates the clean facility, but may balk a bit because they were taught by their mother to scratch their stool into sand, litter or soil. Obviously, young cats that have not yet got in the habit of going in the box for a long period are easier to transition but cats have been trained even after maturity. One can purchase special potty training kits for cats, but a homemade system works just fine too. Start by putting the box near the toilet. After a few weeks, start to raise it gradually stepwise off the floor, using a solid support system (you don't want the cat to jump in and have it fall off the support and spook him!), and continue this for a few weeks. Finally, place the box on the toilet (lid up, seat down) and when this is comfortable, you are ready to start with the human toilet surface. Take a heavy-duty foil turkey roaster pan, and securely tape it under the seat onto the toilet base. Initially, put a bit of litter in the bottom of the pan under the seat hole. As he gets used to this, you can place a progressively larger hole in the tray, until he needs to stand on the toilet seat.
Always leave the seat lid up so he can get at his facility!

Leash training is another skill that takes some patience, but if you are planning to offer your cat fresh air, going for a walk is an excellent way for them to get some exercise, and for you to ensure that they do not get into trouble with strays, or cars etc. Using a well-fitted harness is more secure, and will prevent him from slipping a collar or stressing the neck if the cat decides a sudden dash is in order! Some owners even teach their cat to walk along at the same time as the dog goes for a walk. Remember to keep the walks short, and praise the cat when they move forward when you call their name or another cue such as "walkies". Leash training is more easily done in kittens than with adults. If the cat appears to have tired, it is OK to pick them up to help them home! Don't expect the cat to stay neatly by your side (as you would with a trained dog). They will want to meander a bit, and may make periodic stops to gnaw a bit of grass. A walk with a cat is not a cardiovascular workout, but rather more of a parambulation!

Your veterinarian will likely have some excellent basic pet training books, and sometimes they will allow clients to sign these out. Even if they focus on dog training, the basic principles are similar.

(About Cats Basic Training Method)

When Cats are Aggressive

2009-04-13T02:02:00.000-07:00

The cat that bites or scratches its owner exhibits behaviour which can be very disconcerting and confusing. The most common cause of aggression can be linked to pain or discomfort brought on by illness or injury.

Play Aggression

A healthy cat, especially a young one, will spend some part of its day engaging in active behaviours and playing. Normal play activities are running, climbing, stalking, pouncing, biting and clawing. Most owners find this play acceptable and amusing when it is directed at designated toys. This, however, becomes a problem when it is directed to furniture, rugs, curtains and especially pets and people.

The difference between normal play and play aggression is usually not difficult to recognize. The play-aggressor animal will chase after a person or other household pet and leap on them, biting and chewing. In its most severe forms, play aggression can be frightening and painful.

There are two methods of correcting play aggression:

* redirecting the cat's play into appropriate, acceptable channels
* punishing unacceptable behaviour

To redirect the cat's play, you should provide it with numerous toys that will allow it to move and attack. Toys such as balls or objects that hang down and swing or toys manoeuvered by owners are much more interesting to an active cat.

If punishment is used to correct play aggression, it must be administered immediately, every time the misbehaviour occurs and must be of appropriate type and intensity for the individual cat. Punishment should never involve hitting an animal. Squirting them with a water pistol or water bottle can work well. If your cat does not respond to these methods, notify your veterinarian.

Fear Aggression

A cat with fear aggression behaves differently than a cat with play aggression. Fear aggression can be identified by several characteristics, such as the cat avoiding people, crouching with its ears flattened and tail held low, hissing or growling at people when they are near. It is common for cats to show fear aggression under certain circumstances, but the cat that regularly avoids people and responds to attempts at interaction with aggression behaviours requires veterinary attention.

Processes called desensitization and counterconditioning should be used to treat a cat who exhibits fear aggression. Desensitization involves gradually exposing the cat to people it is afraid of at distances and in situations that do not induce fear. Exposure to these people and situations is increased slowly over time so that no new fear responses develop. The counterconditioning phase of the process involves eliciting a response from the cat that is both behaviourally and physiologically incompatible with the fear response. To do this, we can use both food and toys to entice the cat to socialize with a person. For example, tie a toy to a long string and entice the cat to play. As the cat becomes involved and shows no fear gradually shorten the string. Once the string is short enough the owner may try touching the cat. If the cat starts to retreat lengthen the string and continue.

Intolerance of Petting

While many cats seem to enjoy being petted for long periods of time, others have a limited tolerance of petting. With these cats petting starts out normally and at some point the cat will give a signal of impending aggression, such as twitching its ears or tail or tensing its muscles. Should the owner continue petting the cat may bite or scratch. To reduce these incidences of aggression identify your cat's petting tolerance and pet only within those limits.

Redirected Aggression

Redirected aggression occurs when an owner attempts to handle a cat when it is aroused by something else, such as a strange cat outside the window and gets bitten or scratched. When this behaviour occurs regularly it requires the owner's attention. The best way to avoid redirected aggression is to not approach the cat when it is aroused by another source.

(When Cats are Aggressive )

About Constant Meowing of cats

2009-04-13T01:59:00.000-07:00

When annoyed by our pet's behavior, we often react in an attempt to stop it. Yet, this is often interpreted by our pets as social interaction and therefore inadvertently rewards the behavior. As a rule of thumb, ignore unwanted and reward desired behavior.

In the senior cat, sudden changes in behavior can be an initial symptom of an underlying illness and should prompt a visit to the veterinarian for further investigation. In the younger cat, it is more often than not, simply behavioral and can often be altered through modifications in the way we interact with our pets.

Like all animals, social interaction is important, and more so for some individual pets than others. You have probably noticed that when you come home from work longing for "down time", your cat is eagerly awaiting your arrival and is rested and ready to go! Consider scheduling in regular play sessions so that you can provide an outlet for your cat's need for social interaction. This will hopefully preempt annoying meowing behavior from occurring later on. This time can also be a very effective way for you to wind down from a busy day as well. Many interactive toys exist – from self-made to store-bought – to help facilitate your play sessions. There are also many toys or feline play centers available to encourage independent play.

Have you ever considered getting another cat as a playmate? Although this isn't the right answer for everyone or for every situation, if your cat is relatively young, accepting of newcomers, and has more energy than you can accommodate, a housemate may be the solution to keeping you both happy.

(About Constant Meowing of cats)

About Cats Scratching Behaviour

2009-04-12T00:50:00.000-07:00

Scratching is considered a normal behaviour in cats. Scratching things is an inherited trait and cats do it instinctively, but it is also learned from their mother early on in life. Cats scratch in order to leave a visual and olfactory (i.e. smell) territorial marker. Their scent comes from sweat glands located in their paws. To a lesser extent, they also scratch in order to condition and trim their claws, and to provide muscle toning for their front legs, but this is not essential.

To treat destructive scratching, training involves three aspects: prevention, teaching, and correction. Prevention is accomplished by first scratch-proofing your home. This is done by closing-off problem areas and keeping your cat confined to an area that does not have any "scratchable" objects. If necessary, cover furniture temporarily with plastic and move your curtains out of reach.

Provide a scratching post or board (or more than one). The post should be of sufficient size and texture to make it appealing to your cat and be sturdy enough to prevent tipping over. The preferred covering should have a longitudinal weave that allows your cat to dig its claws in and get a long stroke. The post should also be taller than your cat when it stands on its hind legs. It must be placed close to where your cat sleeps, since most cats mark their territory near their sleeping areas and prefer to scratch shortly after waking up.

Other hints to minimize scratching include keeping the nails closely trimmed, providing enough play toys, and, if possible, allowing your cat access to the outdoors (under supervision).

You can train your cat to use the scratch post by rubbing the surface with catnip and by rubbing your cat's paws gently on the post (cats prefer previously-scratched objects). If your cat wishes to use an object other that the post for scratching, give him a firm "no", bring him to the post and once again gently rub his paws on the post. You may want to give praise or a treat when the post is used.

Finally, if these steps prove unsuccessful, you can try applying remote correction. This involves hiding out of sight (or using a video camera or mirror around a corner) and applying an unpleasant stimulus whenever your cat scratches the drapes or furniture. Unpleasant stimuli may involve a loud noise, water sprayer, a tin can filled with marbles or a small pillow or stuffed toy thrown near your cat. In this way, your cat will identify the negative stimuli with the act of scratching, rather than with you.

If all else fails, you can discuss the pros and cons of declawing with your veterinarian. While declawing is a safe and humane procedure, it remains controversial and your veterinarian can best advise you on whether or not it is a suitable option for your cat.

(About Cats Scratching Behaviour)

About Senior Cat Excessive Vocalization

2009-04-12T00:48:00.000-07:00

Cats communicate not only with their voices but also via body posture, and visual and olfactory (smell) markers. Feline vocalization must be interpreted within the context of not only the sounds they make, but also how they behave when they vocalize, what the body posture is at the time, and what visual clues the cat provides.

Cats may vocalize for any number of reasons, if they are afraid,in pain, distressed, anxious, nervous, angry, or if they just want to complain.

Older cats may start vocalizing because they have gone deaf or have failing vision. They may also vocalize because of pain or discomfort. For example, older cats may suffer from painful problems like periodontal disease or arthritis. Some older cats may also vocalize because of mental confusion or senile dementia. This can lead to anxiety and distress, and ultimately, bouts of vocalization.

Finally, cats may become more demanding as they get older. For example, they may want to be let out, or want increased attention and affection and vocalization may simply be a demand for more freedom or companionship. For all of these reasons, cats that vocalize should be examined by a veterinarian to make sure that they are in good health.

(About Senior Cat Excessive Vocalization)

About Cats Urine Spraying

2009-04-12T00:40:00.000-07:00

Urine spraying is not confined strictly to intact tomcats. Cats, whether male or female, neutered or unneutered, may spray urine to mark their territory when they feel stressed. Spraying urine is one of many methods that cats use to mark their territory. Other methods include visual marking (e.g. scratching objects) and leaving their scent (e.g. rubbing objects with the side if their face). Cats use territorial marking to delineate or outline their property, thereby reassuring themselves that this property will not be violated. The territory may be wide-ranging, as is the case with most tomcats, or it may be confined to a relatively small area, as is the case with indoor cats. If they are not threatened, most cats do not feel the need to mark their territory at all and are quite content to leave the worrying to us.

Numerous factors can cause a cat to suddenly begin to spray urine. Most commonly, some form of emotional upset is involved. For example, competition may exist with another cat in the neighbourhood over who owns what. A cat may be afraid of another cat or be in competition with it over who owns the territory. Often, when the threat (i.e. competing cat) is removed, the urine spraying stops.

Cats may also spray urine if there is some type of stressful change in the household. For example, moving to a new house or the arrival of a new baby or pet in the household can lead to urine spraying. In other words, cats may spray as a way of dealing with stress and anxiety.

In a few cases, urine spraying (and defecation) may actually be a form of vindictiveness on the cat's part, particularly with indoor cats. Some cats may defecate or urinate out of spite after being punished or scolded. While many cat owners know this to be the case with their cats, proving spitefulness is usually difficult.

Cats that spray urine outdoors are not a problem. On the other hand, indoor cats that spray pose a serious health and hygiene problem. If it occurs in a single-cat household, the cat should be examined by a veterinarian and its urine tested to make sure that there is no concurrent urinary tract problem that may be causing the problem. If there is no underlying medical problem, the owner should try to determine the initiating stress that is precipitating the spraying and try to remove it.

In multiple cat households, urine spraying becomes extremely difficult to resolve because of the natural competitiveness between the various cats.If the cause for urine spraying cannot be determined or removed, a deconditioning program or treatment with drugs, or both, may be necessary.

(About Cats Urine Spraying)

About Separation Anxiety in pets

2009-04-11T19:07:00.000-07:00

It is not unusual for pets to experience anxiety under certain circumstances, such as a visit to the veterinarian or when exposed to a new environment. However, when a pet is left alone and exhibits excessive anxiety or distress, the condition is called separation anxiety. Separation anxiety is the most common anxiety in dogs.

In all cases of separation anxiety, your veterinarian should be consulted. Separation anxiety can usually be treated successfully with a combination of behaviour modification and anti-anxiety medication. Your veterinarian will want to gather a thorough medical and behavioural history, as well as perform a thorough physical examination, to ensure that all possible factors are considered.

To correct separation anxiety, one should recruit the help of a dog sitter who can interact with the patient and provide the necessary distractions whenever the owner leaves the house. In this way, the dog will be unable to focus on destructive behaviour and will gradually become desensitized to the owner's absence.

Dogs that suffer from separation anxiety should also be enrolled in an obedience-training course so that their level of confidence both in themselves and their owner is increased. Punishment must be avoided. However, many owners inadvertently reward separation anxiety by comforting and reassuring their dogs when they return home. This should be avoided and homecomings should be kept low key.

The amount of time spent with the dog by the owner should also be decreased to a level where the dog can become less dependent on the owner for stimulation. This can be accomplished by involving friends and neighbours in the day-to-day activities of the dog. Increased play time, more frequent walks away from home, and increased personal interaction can be done by friends in order to decrease the dog's dependence on the owner.

Finally, the dog with separation anxiety must be trained to be able to relax in a variety of environmental settings, both with and without the owner. By desensitizing the dog to new situations, he or she can be trained to accept new situations that should occur in the absence of the owner.

If all else fails, certain anxiety-reducing drugs are available from your veterinarian and can be used concurrently with behaviour modification. The aim of behaviour modification is to eventually allow reduction or cessation of the medication once the pet's abnormal behaviour has been corrected.

(About Separation Anxiety in pets)

Sucking wool is a common behaviour in cats

2009-04-11T19:04:00.000-07:00

Sucking, and wool sucking in particular, is a common behaviour in cats. While the causes are unknown, it is most often seen in Siamese or Burmese cats, suggesting that there may be a genetic basis to this behaviour.

A possible cause may be suckling deprivation as a kitten. Most cats in the wild will normally suckle for six months or more, unlike domesticated cats that are weaned from their mothers by two months of age. It is thought that some cats will suck on inanimate objects such as wool, blankets, or other objects in order to compensate for this reduced amount of suckling.

Punishment is ineffective. The only effective treatment so far for stopping suckling of inanimate objects is to apply noxious-tasting substances such as cologne, pepper sauce or a commercial repellant (e.g. Variton spray, available from your veterinarian) to these objects. Initially, only a few "treated" objects should be made available to your cat. Once your cat has learned that these objects have an unpleasant taste to them, other "untreated" objects can be sprayed with a noxious substance and left lying accessible to your cat. Eventually, your cat will learn to stop this behaviour. If the behaviour persists, you should consult your veterinarian for further advice.
(Sucking wool is a common behaviour in cats)

How to Prevent Cats Digging in Gardens

2009-04-11T19:00:00.000-07:00

The reason why cats dig up soil is possibly because the texture of the soil lends itself so well to covering up stool.

To stop this behaviour, you can try several things. You can try covering the area with bark chips, decorative stones, plastic sheeting, or some of the various materials commonly used to retard weed growth. Cats tend not to like the consistency of these materials because they cannot paw at them. Another technique is to bury chicken wire under a thin layer of soil.

If you have the patience and time, you can have a water hose handy for those times when you actually catch any neighbourhood pets in your garden. Spraying them with water while they are "in the act" generally tends to deter future visits. You can even try placing mousetraps upside-down in the affected areas. When a cat trespasses, the traps will spring harmlessly while frightening the cat away at the same time.

Placing mothballs or other toxic substances around the garden is not a good idea as these substances can be dangerous for children, plants and other living things. For repeat offenders, you may have to resort to a humane trap to capture them and return them to their owner or the animal shelter.

(How to Prevent Cats Digging in Gardens )

About Fleas & Mites in Rabbits

2009-04-11T18:57:00.000-07:00

Flea infestations in rabbits are much less common than infestations with other parasites such as mites.

Wild rabbits have their own rabbit flea, Spilopsyllus cuniculi. If your pet rabbit plays out in your backyard or field, they may pick up this type of flea. These fleas generally prefer to be around the ears and face of the rabbit.

Sometimes rabbits catch the common cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis. Less frequently they may become infested with the dog flea, Ctenocephalides canis. These fleas tend to distribute themselves along the topline of the rabbit, especially congregating down near the base of the tail.

Fleas cause itchiness, and when a flea-infested rabbit scratches with his strong claws, he may pull fur out or leave red marks in the skin.

Some rabbits become allergic to fleas and develop a dermatitis which can become infected with bacteria and lead to hair loss along the topline, and/or a raw irritated appearance of the skin. Specific therapy may be required for this type of allergy.

Specific flea treatments are not currently licensed for rabbits, but your veterinarian may use a product such as imidacloprid or selamectin off-label (not according to instructions on the product).

If fleas are present in the environment, all pets should be treated and the area should also be carefully cleaned and treated. Your veterinarian will advise you regarding the optimal treatment regimen for your particular situation.

(About Fleas & Mites in Rabbits)

Know about Avian Influenza

2009-04-11T18:55:00.000-07:00

What is avian influenza?
Avian influenza (AI) is a contagious viral infection caused by the influenza virus Type "A", which can affect several species of food producing birds (chickens, turkeys, quails, guinea fowl, etc.), as well as pet birds and wild birds.

AI viruses can be classified into two categories: low pathogenic (LPAI) and high pathogenic (HPAI) forms based on the severity of the illness caused in birds, with AI causing the greatest number of deaths in birds. Most AI viruses are low pathogenic and typically cause little or no clinical signs in infected birds. However, some low pathogenic viruses are capable of mutating into high pathogenic viruses. There are many influenza subtypes, two of which include H5 and H7. Historically, only the H5 and H7 subtypes are known to have become high pathogenic in avian species.

What are the signs of disease?
Some or all of the following clinical signs are evident in infected birds:

quietness and extreme depression;
sudden drop in production of eggs, many of which are soft-shelled or shell-less;
wattles and combs become swollen and congested; swelling of the skin under the eyes; coughing, sneezing and nervous signs;
diarrhea; oedema (swelling) and congestion of the combs; hemorrhages on the hock;
a few deaths may occur over several days, but an outbreak may follow, killing hundreds or thousands of birds each day.
Diagnosis of avian influenza may be made on the basis of clinical signs and events leading to the disease. However, since the signs and course of avian influenza are similar to other diseases, laboratory diagnosis is essential.

How is the disease transmitted to birds?
Wild birds, especially waterfowl, are natural reservoirs for the influenza viruses - yet show no clinical signs - and can be responsible for the primary introduction of infection into domestic poultry.

The disease can also spread to birds through contact with infected poultry and poultry products, and through manure and litter containing high concentrations of the virus, for example through contaminated clothing and footwear, vehicles and equipment, and feed and water.

Is avian influenza transmissible to humans?
Avian influenza viruses, such as the H5 virus present in Asia, may, on rare occasions, cause disease in humans. Human transmission has occurred to people having prolonged contact with heavily contaminated environments. Human to human transmission of avian influenza is extremely limited.

Due to the potential for human infection, it is recommended that those people working with or in contact with poultry suspected of being infected with avian influenza wear protective clothing, including face masks, goggles, gloves and boots.

For more information, visit the Public Health Agency of Canada Web site at: http://www.phac-aspc.gc.ca/influenza/avian_e.html.

Does avian influenza occur in Canada?
In the sixties, when turkeys were often raised in ranges (outdoors), cases of low pathogenic avian influenza were often reported in the autumn. One of the viruses isolated in 1966 was later found to meet the modern criteria of a high pathogenic influenza virus. Since the sixties, the majority of turkeys have been raised in closed poultry houses to control other diseases and are managed under more stringent bio-security conditions. As a result, the cases of low pathogenic avian influenza have been rare. Canada has had three cases of low pathogenic H5 and H7 since 1975, the latest of which was reported in 2000.

In February 2004, the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA) identified the presence of a low pathogenic H7 avian influenza in the Fraser Valley area of southern British Columbia. Subsequent tests revealed the presence of highly pathogenic H7 avian influenza in British Columbia in March 2004. The CFIA depopulated all infected premises (42 commercial and 11 backyard premises) on which highly pathogenic avian influenza was found and pre-emptively destroyed all birds in the surrounding three kilometre areas.

What can travellers do to avoid bringing the disease into the country?

While out of the country:

Avoid visiting areas where you may come into contact with live birds, such as poultry farms, live bird markets or any other area where birds congregate. This is most important in countries experiencing an outbreak of high pathogenic avian influenza. (An updated list of countries affected by AI can be found at the World Organisation for Animal Health Web site at
http://www.oie.int/eng/en_index.htm). If you are in contact with live birds infected with the AI virus, the virus may persist on clothing, footwear and in hair. Take appropriate personal hygiene measures including thorough hand washing and showering, wash clothing, and clean and disinfect footwear.

On returning home:

Ensure all birds and poultry products you wish to bring into Canada are eligible for entry and declare all animal products upon arrival.
If you visit an area where you have been in contact with live birds while abroad and/or you plan to go onto a live bird premises shortly after your return to Canada, make sure that any clothing and footwear you wear are free from soil and manure before entering Canada. Also, take appropriate personal hygiene measures including thorough hand washing and showering, wash clothing, and clean and disinfect footwear after arrival.
For more travel information, visit Public Health Agency of Canada Travel Medicine Program Web site at www.phac-aspc.gc.ca/tmp-pmv/index.html.

What can livestock producers do to prevent infection on their farm?

Wild bird populations are the natural reservoir for the influenza viruses. Therefore, it is essential for commercial poultry producers to maintain strict bio-security practices.

On a farm:

Keep away from areas frequented by wild fowl;
Keep strict control over access to your poultry houses by people and equipment;
Keep equipment cleaned and disinfected before taking it into poultry houses;
Do not keep bird feeders and duck ponds on your farm. This will discourage wild birds.
Maintain high sanitation standards.
If clinical signs are noticed or suspected in poultry, contact your veterinarian or the CFIA office in your area. Producers are obligated to report any suspicion of AI because it is a reportable disease under the Health of Animals Act.

There are reports of H5N1 infections in domestic cats. Is it possible for household pets to contract avian flu?

Avian influenza typically affects species of food producing birds (chickens, turkeys, quails, guinea fowl, etc.), as well as pet birds and wild birds. Studies have shown that a small number of mammalian species, including pigs, seals, whales, mink, and ferrets, are susceptible to natural infection with avian influenza viruses. However, of these species, the pig is the only one that has significance for human health. While there have been recent reports of avian influenza infection in domestic cats in Thailand, this is a rare event. The World Health Organization continues to investigate the case in Thailand but reports that is unlikely that H5N1 infection in cats presents a risk to human health.
(Know about Avian Influenza )

Know About fish feeding

2009-04-11T18:51:00.000-07:00

I have a fancy gold fish - a comet - that lives in a basic fish bowl. He is a very happy fellow that loves to eat. I have to go away for three nights and I bought some weekend feeding tablets. It says that it can feed 10-15 fish in three days, that is a lot of food and he is a little guy with a big stomach.

My question is should I give him the tablet while I'm gone or just give him a lot of food when I leave? The last thing I want to do is lose my fish.

Feeding goldfish while an owner is away can be done in two ways. Having a friend or neighbour come over and continue to feed fish according to the usual routine is ideal. This way, fish can be monitored and if any problems arise, no delay in care will occur.

The other way to proceed is to drop in a feeding puck. The puck slowly dissolves into the water and releases nutrients to the fish. Different sizes can be purchased; two day, three day etc. Upon return from holidays, if any of the puck is still not dissolved, it should be removed from the fish tank. Most puck products recommend removing about a third of the water in the fish tank, and replacing it with fresh, de-chlorinated water at room temperature. This removes most of the dissolved nutrient product. It is not a bad idea to change the water completely after using this type of product once everyone is settled in after the holiday.

Leaving enough fish flakes in the tank (or bowl) to last three days is NOT recommended because the excess food will spoil and leave a mess. Being in a tank with an excess of food is not good for a fish. Once the excess food that was not consumed in the first meal has been in the tank for a while, a fish will not consume it and will be hungry after all.

Your veterinarian can offer advice or refer you to excellent references on goldfish care.

(Know About fish feeding)

how to care your Budgie

2009-04-11T18:48:00.000-07:00

The budgie originated in Australia, and could be found "down under" in varied terrain consisting of open fields and woodlands. Budgies are the most popular pet birds in the world. Friendly and curious, gentle and active, they need to be kept busy. They love their toys—and your attention. Though not talkers like their larger parrot cousins, they have a need to express themselves vocally and with training, some can mimic simple words. Select young birds for purchase and spend time every day to gently tame and socialize them.

Many pet birds found at shops and breeder facilities are hand reared to ensure adequate socialization at an early age. Look for an active bird with healthy plumage and a bright expression, and have the new bird checked by your local veterinarian at the time of purchase. Some veterinarians treat birds and/or exotic pet species exclusively. Many small animal clinics will perform routine bird appointments, but will refer you to a certified avian specialist for more involved cases. Your parrot should see a veterinarian once a year for a professional evaluation and preventive health care. The veterinary health care team is an important source of good advice regarding proper health care for your bird. Dr. Robin Roscoe, certified avian specialist of Linwood Animal Hospital in Ontario also suggests that clients take time to review the Association of Avian Veterinarian's bird health pamphlets, which may be available from your veterinarian or viewed online at the AAV association website (www.aav.org).

A budgie’s lifespan ranges from eight to 14 years. On average, budgies live about 6-10 years. They weigh about 50 g full grown, and as a result, require a lot less food and space than the larger bird species. A guideline for a minimum cage dimension is about 30 x 40 x 60 cm for a pair.

Sex can usually be determined after 4 months of age by observing the color of the cere, the fleshy area at the base of the beak. The cere of young males is usually pinkish-purplish blue while that of adults is bright blue. Young females have bluish-white ceres), changing to brown in the adult. Some females retain a light blue tinge, and during breeding season the cere may become crusted. Cere sexing is not considered foolproof. Immature birds are distinguished by a less intense coat color, barring on the forehead, and the iris (coloured portion of the eye) is darker gray rather than white.

Feeding mixed seeds with supplemental vitamins, calcium and green foods and small amounts of fruit can be done. Feeding a pelleted diet is ideal.

NOTES:
* Chocolate, avocado and coffee beans are toxic
* Budgies enjoy having a spray of water on the cage or greenery so they can drink their water as droplets and offer regular baths
* Avoid placing anything in the cage containing lead or galvanized metal (zinc); these elements are toxic
* Birds often hide signs of illness so take note of any subtle changes in your budgie’s health or behaviour
* Avoid sandpaper perches - use natural wood if possible and vary the diameter of the perch
* Elevate food and water dishes to help keep them clean and do not position them below perches
* Provide toys to your budgies and change them periodically to keep the birds entertained.
(how to care your Budgie )

How to care your Parrot

2009-04-11T00:28:00.000-07:00

The parrot is a very popular pet bird choice, and there is a spectrum of types to choose from, each with varied plumage, size, longevity, and temperament. Some parrot groups include African Parrots and Amazon Parrots.

Parrots require considerable space and attention but their loyal companionship and personality are well worth the investment of energy and time needed to nurture a first class companion. Given the right training, some of these birds can develop large vocabularies, thus entertaining their caregivers and visitors endlessly! Select young birds for purchase and designate a time every day to gently tame and socialize them.

Many pet birds found at shops and breeder facilities are hand reared to ensure adequate socialization at an early age. Look for an active bird with healthy plumage and a bright expression, and have the new bird checked by your local veterinary hospital at the time of purchase. Some veterinarians treat birds and/or exotic pet species exclusively. A facility such as this would be an excellent health care choice for your pet parrot. Many small animal clinics will perform routine bird appointments, but will refer you to a certified avian specialist for more involved cases. Your bird should see a veterinarian once a year for a professional evaluation and preventive health care. The veterinary health care team is an important source of good advice regarding proper health care for your bird. Dr. Robin Roscoe, an avian specialist at Linwood Animal Hospital in Ontario also suggests that clients take time to review the Association of Avian Veterinarian bird health pamphlets, which are available from your veterinarian or online at the AAV association website (www.aav.org).

A parrot’s lifespan varies according to species, and ranges from about 40-100 years. On average, a small parrot will live 10-15 years but some of the larger species may outlive you!

Minimum cage dimensions for large parrots; either as a pair or single are 150 x 150 x 160 cm, and for small parrots 120 x 90 x 90 cm. Bigger is better and take note that these are minimum dimensions only.

Feeding regimens depend on the type of parrot. These birds are a large investment and you should consult with your source breeder and your avian veterinarian regarding optimum diet and feeding regimens for your particular bird. Pellets and crumble formulations fed free choice, balanced seed mixes (a maximum 10 sunflower seeds per day), supplemental calcium, green food, fruit, pasta, rice, potato, corn, peanuts, cooked meat and well cooked eggs are other components that may also be recommended.

Important things to know about parrots:

* Chocolate, avocado and coffee beans are toxic
* A test for Chlamydophila (cause of psittacosis) should be conducted since this is a zoonosis (disease shared by people and animals). Clinical signs of Chlamydophila may include sneezing, weight loss and diarrhea, though many birds are asymptomatic (show no signs of infection)
* Large proportions of moist fruit and vegetables in the diet may cause diarrhea.
* Avoid placing anything in the cage containing lead or galvanized metal (zinc); these elements are toxic
* Birds often hide signs of illness so take note of any subtle changes in your parrot’s health or behaviour, especially in the droppings
* Avoid sandpaper perches - use natural wood
* Elevate food and water dishes to help keep them clean and avoid placing them under perches
* Parrots tend to go to the highest perch, but one should offer a variety of perches- different in size, height, and location.
* There may be significant differences in temperament and aggressiveness between individual birds and parrot types. Parrots need lots of attention on a daily basis, and adequate mental stimulation to help combat boredom and prevent vices from developing
* If bored, many parrots get very noisy, so offer lots of toys; even a play gym area
* Parrots do much better when housed in a large aviary-type environment as opposed to a cage. The minimum cage requirements should be considered much less desirable than a larger structure.
How to care your Parrot

How to care your Canary ?

2009-04-09T20:27:00.001-07:00

Important things to know about canaries:

* Chocolate, avocado and coffee beans are toxic
* Canaries should not be housed in a kitchen area. Cooking fumes, especially vapours released from frying in non-stick pans are very toxic. Any smoke such as side stream cigarette smoke or that from baking is dangerous. You don't want your bird to have to be a "canary in a coal mine" if your kitchen air quality drops, which it frequently will during meal preparation.
* Place your canary near a window for entertainment and sunshine; this may help encourage singing
* Avoid placing anything in the cage containing lead or galvanized metal (zinc); these elements are toxic
* Birds often hide signs of illness so take note of any subtle changes in your canary’s health or behaviour
* Avoid sandpaper perches - use natural wood if possible
* Provide weekly baths (or daily, if the birds enjoy bath time)
* Elevate food and water dishes to help keep them clean; avoid placing them below perches
* Canaries are easily stressed by temperature changes so avoid drafts.

Canaries are noted for their melodic singing and gentle natures. These popular pet birds are small and thus require less space than the larger species. In addition to their song, potential buyers are often attracted to their beautiful plumage. Many varieties of canaries are available. When selecting a canary, it is important to buy from a reputable shop or breeder and purchase a young bird. Youngsters are more adaptable to new environments and new people. Select a bird that is active and has normal healthy plumage and a bright expression.

Common types of canaries include Harz, American Singers, Yorkshire, Lancashire, Scotch Fancy, and Border Canary. Songs vary between the different types. At the time of purchase, have a veterinarian examine your new opera star, and at that time make sure you become familiar with all of the important husbandry and preventive health care practices you will need to know, to help your bird live a healthy, happy, and long life. Some veterinarians specialize in caring for pet birds and exotic species in their practice and this type of veterinary hospital is an ideal choice for your bird. Many small animal hospitals will handle routine bird appointments, but will refer you to a certified avian specialist for involved medical or surgical cases. Your bird should be see a veterinarian once a year for professional evaluation and preventive health care. Dr. Robin Roscoe, a certified avian specialist at Linwood Animal Hospital in Ontario also suggests that clients take time to review the Association of Avian Veterinarian bird health pamphlets, which are available from your veterinarian or online at the AAV association website (www.aav.org).

The special relationship between canaries and humans goes back to the early days of mining. The old saying "canary in a coal mine" refers to the practice of miners taking canaries into the mines. If the air quality was poor, canaries would show adverse signs first, and so they became trusted as a sentinel species to ensure safe working conditions for people below ground in the era before modern ventilation systems were invented.

On average, canaries live about seven years, though lifespan varies considerably between different types and can range from five to twenty years. At minimum, cages should be 60 cm x 60 cm, and at least that height. Diet varies somewhat between the different types of canaries, and your source breeder or veterinarian can help you understand what detailed feeding program is best suited to your bird's needs. Mixed seeds or crumble with supplemental green food, and small amounts of other sources of protein, starch and vitamins, along with a calcium source such as oyster shell should be fed. Water should be provided at all times and changed frequently to keep it fresh.

(How to care your Canary ?)

How to Keep Chinchilla in Good Health ?

2009-04-09T20:24:00.000-07:00

Chinchillas are large rodents named after the Chincha Indians of the Andes. By the early 1900s, this adorable energetic animal was close to extinction because of extensive hunting for the pelts. An American working in South America at the time asked the government for authorization to trap and export them. It took him about a decade just to find approximately a dozen specimens for export. The pets and fur bearing animals we see today arose almost exclusively from this small genetic pool.

Basic Biology

* Lifespan is about a decade, though some have lived over 20 years
* Their average weight is about 500g (1/2 kg)
* They are born well developed (walk within a few hours, eyes open, already have a fur coat )
* They are active at dusk and at night, but often adapt to a daytime schedule

Feeding

Lots of clean fresh water should be available. Hay is the staple of their diet. Timothy and brome grass are ideal. Alfalfa is too rich as hay, but small amounts of alfalfa pellet feed can be offered. Pelleted feed formulated specifically for this breed can be provided in small quantities. They should be fed only very small portions of treat food and introduced to any new treats gradually. Treats should only be offered to chinchillas older than 4 months of age. Dry wheat toast cube, portions of a raisin, dried apple chip, unsalted sunflower seed and very small portions of green vegetables are suitable. Some tolerate treats better than others. Monitor feces and discontinue immediately if digestive upset occurs. Branches of apple, maple, birch and pear or peach trees are important for increasing dietary fibre content. Like rabbits, chinchillas ingest their night feces, termed cecotropes. This is normal behaviour and provides essential nutrients.

Breeding

* Females normally have 2-4 offspring and eat the placentas
* Pregnancy lasts about 111 days, and one litter per year is usual, but two or even three litters can occur since they can breed again while nursing
* They are ready to be bred by less than a year of age, but it is recommended females be about 1 year old before mating
* May be housed in pairs or in large breeding groups, though whatever arrangement is made, the males need to be able to escape females because they can become really aggressive and hurt the males

Housing

Because they keep growing their incisors throughout their life, strong chewing substrates should be provided. Wood from fruit trees (except cherry or plum) are good examples, though wooden cages are not advisable since they can quickly chew themselves an escape route! Wire cages of 1/2 x 1/2 inch spacing are ideal and if the floor is wire for easy removal of droppings underneath, make sure part of the house is solid floored to prevent foot sores. Newborns need to be on solid footing to prevent foot and leg injuries. An exercise wheel is an excellent idea, but make sure it is solid, not wire. Bedding should be aspen shavings, not pine or cedar. Make the cage as large as your home can accommodate. Chinchillas love jumping, so offering more than one level is ideal (excepting young stock, where you need to block off the high places until they are mature). A hideaway box is very important for privacy. Toys should be left in only if they are durable, though toilet paper rolls can be safely torn apart. Water should be supplied in a glass bottle with metal or glass spout since they will chew through plastic ones in no time. Food can be offered in heavy ceramic dishes. Clean both bottle and dishes regularly. The cage must be very dry. Any sitting moisture will lead to health problems. Chinchillas require cool dry surroundings of 10-20 C or 50-68 F and 15-25 percent humidity range as rough guidelines. Even at only slightly higher temperatures and humidity, heat stroke can occur.

Handling and Behaviour

If let out for exercise, select a safe, chinchilla-proof room. A closet works well! Never leave chinchillas unattended. Only do this step after you have first tamed them. They will need a few weeks to get to know and trust you. First do open palm feeding, then only gradually begin to try to lift them up. Never chase them or you will scare them and lose their trust, perhaps permanently. If you grab at a chinchilla, a large section of fur may come out in your hand. This fur slip is an evolutionary trait to help them escape predator (predators are left only with a mouthful of fluffy fur)! A chinchilla’s tail will break if pulled.

Health Considerations
These rodents should never be bathed, but offering a sturdy container filled with finely powdered concrete as a dust bath is important. Make sure it is sized large enough so they can roll and play in it. Bath dishes should contain 1-2" of powder, and be placed in cage for 15-30 minutes every day or two. If left in longer, they will be used as toilets!

Chinchillas are fairly healthy as long as proper husbandry is carried out. No vaccines are needed, but annual check-ups at the veterinary hospital are important for identifying any early health concerns.

(How to Keep Chinchilla in Good Health ?)

Can Teddy bear hamster live with a regular hamster

2009-04-09T20:23:00.000-07:00

The most commonly kept hamsters are the middle sized Syrian Golden Hamster, Mesocricetus auratus. Other names for this pet include the Golden Hamster, Fancy Hamster, and Standard Hamster. The longhaired variety is often termed "Teddy Bear" because they are so cuddly.

The hamster is a solitary animal and does not require a buddy. Unless they are less than two months old, or they are together for breeding, hamsters should be housed solo. Even for breeding, time together is kept to a minimum. If housed together, serious fighting occurs and sometimes death results from the injuries.

(Can Teddy bear hamster live with a regular hamster)

Notice of taking your birds to a Veterinary Clinic

2009-04-09T20:19:00.000-07:00

Some things to keep in mind when preparing for your bird’s veterinary appointment:

* Do not clean out your bird’s cage before a veterinary check-up

* Transport the bird in its cage if possible and cover the contents on the bottom of the cage with wax paper so that the layer stays intact for veterinary examination

* Bring along your bird’s medical record chronicling any deworming/mite treatments, psittacosis or other test results, and a record of where you purchased/obtained the bird

* If possible, arrange for a check up in warm weather. Otherwise be sure to pre-heat your vehicle and drape the cage with a towel or blanket to ward off drafts.

* Bring along samples of your bird’s diet including food and water samples, utensils, toys, and calcium sources for examination

* Empty your bird’s water dish before transport

* If transporting your bird in a cardboard box, line the box with paper towel and ensure enough air holes of appropriate size are present and the lid is well secured. You may wish to bring a snapshot of your bird’s housing situation or aviary so that the veterinarian can see the cage size, room layout, toys etc.

* For very large birds, remember to bring along any handling gloves you would normally use and be sure to advise the veterinary team in advance if these birds are not used to being handled.

(Notice of taking your birds to a Veterinary Clinic )

How to Keep Mouse in Good Health

2009-04-09T20:16:00.000-07:00

Not everyone wants to keep their house mouse-free! Mice are popular pets and proper care will help to ensure that they live happy, healthy lives.

The mouse is a member of the Order Rodentia, Family Muridae and sub-family Murinae. The scientific name for the common pet and research species of mouse is Mus musculus. Originally from Europe and the Far East, the mouse is quite happy with its pet status since historically mice were considered vermin and were promptly exterminated.

When selecting a mouse for a pet, make sure that the mouse appears healthy, with normal activity levels, bright eyes and shiny coat.

Basic Biology

* The average size of the common adult mouse is 33 g for females and about 30 g for males.

* With proper care, a mouse lives an average lifespan of 18-36 months.

* Mice have a very fast heart rate, with 400-750 beats per minute being average! They also breathe very fast, often approaching 100-150 breaths per minute!

* Though it is not understood why, a mouse has a much more developed right lung (with four lobes) than left lung ( with one lobe).

* A mouse has very concentrated urine.

* A mouse’s front teeth, or incisors grow continually over their lifespan.

* Though mice do not hibernate, they have a special kind of body fat called brown fat, located mostly in a deposit between the shoulder blades. This fat helps them cope with changes in the environment. Instead of shivering, they increase their metabolic rate and draw upon the fat pad for energy.

Feeding
It is best to feed your pet mouse a commercial pelleted mouse feed. This feed will contain all of the nutrients essential to your mouse’s diet. Buying small bags of feed at a time will ensure that key nutrients do not break down due to long storage times. Fresh water should be available at all times.

Breeding

By about 2 months of age, mice are old enough for breeding. The females cycle every 5 days, and when they accept the male the heat period lasts only one night. If breeding is to occur, the male and female mouse should be housed together. Pregnancy lasts about 20 days and there are approximately 11 pups in a littler. Pups are weaned from their mother at approximately 21 days old when they weigh about 11g.

Housing

When it comes to housing your mouse, bedding with ground corncob is inexpensive and safe. Aspen shavings and newsprint ink-free paper products are fine but pine and cedar shavings should be avoided. It is important to use a cage designed for mice, as they can wiggle between the bars of cages intended for large rodents and rabbits. Aquariums are a popular housing option.

You should clean your mouse’s cage every 2-4 days. Provide lots of bedding material and a cubby in which to nest. Water should be provided in a bottle. Avoid placing your mouse cage in drafty areas, in direct sunlight, or exposing your mice to extremes of temperature.

Toys are much appreciated; toilet paper rolls and Kleenex boxes are a fun diversion!

Handling and Behaviour

When mice are surprised, they can give a firm nip with their incisor teeth. Approach them slowly and let them know you are there before picking them up. Lift your mice by gently grasping the tail base. Holding the tail further down can lead to serious injury. When tame, a one handed lift is preferred. Avoid squeezing a mouse’s body and be careful not to drop a mouse during transport. Many people carry their pet mice in their pockets to keep them secure. Tame mice will enjoy sitting in your lap or hand and being petted.

Health Considerations

An interesting feature of mice is the distribution of the mammary glands or milk producing tissue. Rather than being near the nipples (tissue is here at nipples also, but extends out much further than other
mammals). This spread out pattern means that if mammary gland cancer develops, mastectomy or surgical removal of mammary glands is not a good option as it is with most mammals.

If social stress is present, wounds may be a problem. Some mice also "stress barber" their fur if dominance issues exist in a group.

Your veterinarian will provide information on the common bacterial, fungal, parasitic and viral diseases in mice. When introducing new mice to the home, make sure that they are isolated from other mice until you are sure no diseases (e.g. ringworm) are being carried into the environment.

(How to Keep Mouse in Good Health )

Rabbits also have Hair Loss problem

2009-04-09T20:14:00.000-07:00

If you note any change in your rabbit's usual behaviour, schedule an appointment with a veterinarian in your area that treats rabbits. Veterinarians who have focused their practice on this and other related species are best placed to field any case-specific questions.

Many causes of rabbit skin problems produce similar clinical signs, so professional evaluation is important.

Some possible treatment options that might be prescribed include:

* Trim back nails very short

* Treat specific cause

* Keep hutch or cage clean and dry and minimize stress

A rabbit will not normally pull large patches of hair out except during nest building, in pregnancy. This situation would be considered a normal nesting behaviour and would require no treatment.

Some causes of hair pulling and skin irritation/itchiness (pruritis) in rabbits include:

* Pregnancy "NORMAL" behaviour

* Cheyletiella fur mites - usually associated with a scaly dermatitis with moderate hair loss

* Ringworm or dermatomycosis (a fungal agent) - usually associated with localized dry, scaling lesions

*Poor husbandry including: rough floor surface, contact irritation (use of harsh cleaners for the rabbit hutch or cage), moisture induced dermatitis associated with colonization by Staphyloccocus aureus bacteria; leading to conditions such as "sore hock" (necrotizing plantar pododermatitis) and suppurative and necrotizing dermatitis, or infection with Pasteurella multocida bacteria; leading to mucopurulent dermatitis

* nutritional problems such as poor quality or low fibre diets (cause diarrhea and thus increased moisture in fur and around hutch)

* Stress barbering - local or diffuse (widespread) distribution of lesions

* Fleas

* Psoroptes ear mites (rarely, these parasites spread to other areas of the fur apart from the ears, such as thighs or legs)

* Idiopathic (cause not identified)

(Rabbits also have Hair Loss problem)

Goldfish _ About Swim Bladder

2009-04-09T20:12:00.000-07:00

Goldfish come in all shapes and sizes. Most commonly found are the standard-type goldfish, those possessing a trim body shape, or alternatively, fancy ornamental varieties such as fantail, ryukin or oranda can be found. Those fancy-type fish are often bred to have large billowing fins and a shorter wider body shape. The fancy goldfish are more likely to develop swim bladder problems causing them to lie in an upside down position. Because of the shape of the fancy fish's body, an enlarged swim bladder can easily flip the goldfish upside down. Swim bladder problems lead to unwanted increased or decreased buoyancy.

A swim bladder is a thin-walled sac in the front (anterior) of the fish abdomen that can expand or contract to help control buoyancy. The sac is attached to the esophagus (via the pneumocystic duct) in goldfish and the swim bladder is juxtaposed to a rich collection of blood vessels. The oxygen that comes in through the fish's gills is transferred into the sac from the blood vessels to inflate it. An inflated swim bladder increases buoyancy. This is because the increased fish volume is not associated with an increased weight. A deflated bladder decreases buoyancy, allowing the fish to dive deeper. The pneumocystic duct acts as a pipe that can vent excess gas from the swim bladder into the gut system quickly.

Causes of swim bladder problems are diverse and perhaps multi-factorial. Reported causes include:

1. Bacterial or viral infection of the swim bladder that result in the lining of the bladder becoming thickened, thus interfering with the transfer of gas into the sac or reduced sac elasticity. This decreases the ability to change sac volume as needed.

2. Species predisposition due to anatomical variation. Mentioned above, the globoid shape of many fancy fish predisposes to abnormal swim bladder function.

3. Feeding regimens. Some report that fish take in excess air if they access their food on the surface of the tank. Evidence to support this etiology is sketchy. Others attribute problems to switching food sources from moisture rich gels or live food preparations to dried pellets and flakes. The lower fluid content and subsequent rapid expansion as water comes into the digestive system is thought to contribute to constipation, which can physically interfere with the ability of the swim bladder sac to expand within the abdomen or empty excess gas into the digestive tract.

Preventive measures may include gradual feed changes, pre-moistening dried foods, feeding live food or gels containing higher moisture content, keeping water and aquarium clean, and watching new additions (isolate new fish first) to help maintain disease-free aquarium status.

Treatment will be prescribed based on the specific condition of the fish, but if infection is confirmed, therapy may be prescribed. Some suggest feeding a few peas as a source of fibre to help relieve constipation if constipation is determined to be a contributing factor. Ask your veterinarian to assess your fish for you so that if a treatable condition is identified, proper therapy can begin.

(Goldfish _ About Swim Bladder )

Care of Finches _ Family Fringillidae

2009-04-09T20:08:00.000-07:00

The finch family is very large (140 species) and diverse. Some finches that are kept as pets include long-tailed finches, Erythrura [Chloebia] gouldiae or Gouldian Finch, and red-faced parrot Finch. Society (Bengalese) Finch, Senegal fire Finch (red-billed fire Finch), masked Finch, melba Finch, cutthroat Finch, zebra Finch, star Finch, red-headed Finch (Paradise Sparrow), Tiger Finch, Owl Finch, and grey singing Finch are other species available.

Finches are sociable birds, so they should be housed in pairs (allow at least 3 m2 per pair), and it is important to provide suitable nesting boxes. Proper diet for these birds includes: insects, greens, seeds (unripe and ripened), sprouts (germinated seeds), egg (hardboiled), crumbs, corn, a calcium source and lots fresh water.

In general, finches have a clutch of 3-4 eggs. Approximate incubation: 14-16 days. Fledging: 18-22 days. There is considerable variation though, for example Gouldian finches: Clutch: 5-6 eggs or more, Incubation: 14-16 days, Fledging: 21-24 days.

Lifespan for finches is about 2-8 years for small ones and 8-12 years for large ones.
(Care of Finches _ Family Fringillidae)

Respiratory Disease:Rabbit with snuffles

2009-04-08T19:54:00.000-07:00

The formal term for "snuffles" is nasal catarrh or pasteurellosis. This condition is caused by a bacterium called Pasteurella multocida, and sometimes another bacterium, Bordetella may have a role in some cases (particularly pneumonia). It is considered highly contagious. It is not just a nasal (nose) germ. The infection may also produce pneumonia, abscesses, genital, eye, and inner ear infections.

Rabbits are infected by both direct contact with infected rabbits and by contact with a contaminated environment such as common food, bedding, or water containers. Unfortunately, some rabbits go on after recovery from illness to continue to shed the bacteria as healthy carriers. Rabbits under stress (crowding, temperature extremes, birth or kindling), recently transported, or the very young are most susceptible.

Snuffles can produce a profuse thin or thick (pussy) discharge from both the nose and eyes. Often the fur on the front legs and "bib" become soiled with discharge as the rabbit attempts to clear the secretions from the face. The infection can progress quickly and severely, resulting in a bloodstream infection (septicemia) that can kill a rabbit in two days. At the other end of the spectrum, the infection can be a low-grade chronic condition that waxes and wanes over weeks. The most common presentation is somewhere in between wherein a sudden "cold" develops. Poor appetite, lethargy, coughing, sneezing and difficulty breathing may result.

Treatment of this condition requires the use of antibiotics, supportive care, and good environmental hygiene. Rabbits will need to be separated for treatment so that they do not pass the infection along. The handler should also wash up between animals, preferably donning gloves and "gown" and different shoes when going into the area where the sick animals are isolated. The gown can just be an old XL sized clean, cast-off shirt. Simple precautions, like not washing all the rabbit dishes together in one tub can also help to control the disease spread. The airspace should also be separated so that aerosolized bacteria liberated during sneezing cannot travel to the hutch next in line. A disinfectant should be used to properly clean surfaces after they are washed. Your veterinarian can advise you on the best choice. In severe cases, euthanasia may be recommended. Euthanasia may also be recommended in a breeding facility to help contain an outbreak.

As preventive measures in a breeding facility, the expectant females and their newborns should be kept away from the other rabbits. If a new rabbit enters a house or facility, the newcomer needs to be isolated for a while in case they are carriers. There is a test that can be done on nasal swabs to identify carriers, and ideally, the incoming rabbit should be tested prior to purchase.

Contact your veterinarian promptly if you suspect that your rabbit might have snuffles. The best prognosis occurs with prompt treatment. The health care team can also provide specific antibiotic therapy, nursing care recommendations, and appropriate environmental cleaning protocols. Not all veterinarians treat rabbits, so contact a few local facilities if necessary so that you can be sure your veterinarian is comfortable working with this species.

(Respiratory Disease:Rabbit with snuffles )

About Birds Rickets (Metabolic bone disease)

2009-04-08T19:51:00.000-07:00

Metabolic bone disease in birds results in painful degenerative changes in the bones that result from nutritional imbalance and deficiencies. Imbalance of calcium, phosphorus, and Vitamin D3 can lead to soft or brittle beaks, claws and keel, bone fractures and enlarged parathyroid glands. These body changes lead to weakness, abnormal postures including torticollis, appetite loss, lethargy, pain, and if untreated, death. This metabolic bone disturbance is termed rickets in young birds, and metabolic bone disease (syn: nutritional hyperparathyroidism/osteoporosis) in older ones.

Lovebirds, it should be noted, are prone to complications from low calcium that relate to the reproductive system. Egg binding (internal retention), and oviduct prolapse (external extrusion of the reproductive tract) are a few of the possible signs of this problem. Unpaired finches and lovebirds, and sometimes, solo cockatiels are prone to excessive egg laying. This results in a chronic drain on system calcium stores. Egg binding can usually be diagnosed by palpation of the abdomen of the bird by your veterinarian, though sometimes if they are bound high in the abdomen, a radiograph (X-ray) may be required to confirm this problem. If an egg is bound internally, many signs can occur. This can be a critical situation for the bird if left untreated.

The usual diet offered to birds includes seeds, balanced formulated pellets, dried and fresh fruit, and fresh water. It should be noted that seed should be a treat, not the main staple because seeds are deficient in calcium, high in fat and phosphorus, and low in Vitamin D3. They have their role in the diet, but the birds need much more. Many owners and breeders provide a balanced nutritional supplement with key amino acids (such as lysine and methionine), vitamins, and sometimes probiotics are included in formulations to help keep the gut balance optimal.

Note that there can be a big difference between what you feed, and what the bird consumes. Some birds will favor certain seeds over other dietary components, and this results in problems if foodstuffs are placed in the cage free choice. For this reason, especially in overweight birds, limited dawn and dusk feedings are recommended so that the consumption can be more closely monitored.

The natural supplements suggested below are in addition to other dietary components such as seeds, pellets, and perhaps a nutritional supplement:

Good natural sources of Vitamin A:
* Dandelion leaves
* Yams
* Brussel sprouts
* Carrots
* Broccoli

Good natural sources of Vitamin D:
* Cod liver oil (only very tiny amounts needed)

Good natural sources of Calcium:
* Cheese (cultured*)
* Yogurt (cultured*)

(*Non-cultured dairy products should be avoided due to lactose intolerance in birds)

* Cuttlebone
* Oyster shells
* Bone meal
* Spinach
* Broccoli
About Birds Rickets (Metabolic bone disease)

Health Considerations of Pot Bellied Pig

2009-04-08T19:48:00.000-07:00

Pot Bellied Pigs (Syn: Vietnamese Miniature Pot Bellied Pigs, Chinese Potbellied Pig)

If you don't already have a pot bellied pig in your home, read this summary carefully since many folks that adopt them find they are in over their heads! Taking a pig into your home has many attendant challenges (and excellent rewards!), but the number of pigs that are surrendered once they reach maturity indicates that many people do not understand upfront what their (the pigs) special needs are. There are many sanctuaries for unwanted pigs, but the best strategy is to become well educated about pigs before the pet comes home.

The pot bellied pig is a very intelligent, active pet that has a mind of it's own, and can provide many hours of entertainment or many hours of stress, depending on how it integrates into the household. As they grow, their needs grow, and if they overrun the home, some people put them out in the yard in a dog house. The neighbours may have something to say about this, because squealing and screaming can occur if they are left alone for long periods of time. This is also not a really humane option, because the pig will sorely miss the human contact that they received as piglets.

Unfortunately, up-front pet selection is often not rigorous. Some have sold pigs that are purported to be pot bellied variety, but as they mature, it is evident that they will become much larger than this variety. Make sure the breeder you buy from has shown you other stock that confirms that the offspring are small, and that the parents and piglets are friendly, accommodated to human contact, and trained. Care taken at this step can prevent heartbreak later. Going to breed events, and visiting more than one pig source is recommended. The person selling you a good quality pet will ensure that you understand their needs, will provide you with a starter kit of information, and will be proud to show you their other stock. There are plenty of good sources of pets.

Before you bring them into your neighbourhood, check for local ordinances that might potentially restrict PBP ownership.

Basic Biology

Other pigs that are in between the farm hog and this breed in size exist. Kune Kune (400 lb) and Guinea Hog are some intermediate varieties. There are no "mini" miniature pig varieties. Those that are under the average size may have been underfed.

These small pigs originated in Vietnam and China, and are a relatively new introduction to North America. Pigs are substantially the same, whether on the farm or the pot-bellied variety. They are omnivores, which means that they will eat meat or plant-based food sources. This does not imply that they will thrive just on table scraps. They require a balanced diet, but do appreciate a few healthy low fat tidbits from our table such as salad and "veggies". Avoid high sugar treats; chocolate may potentially be toxic to pigs. The provision of a solid, balanced diet ensures healthy growth and maintenance. There are pig chows available, and the breeder should provide you with some food so that the new pig will have some familiar food to start off with at their new home. Some breeders have also historically advised limiting the food for pigs to "keep them small". Do not do this to the pig. The properly bred variety will not overgrow if fed properly. Do not feed them dog and cat food because these are too high in protein. The pig should have a body condition that does not allow you to feel bony prominences, but it should not be excessively rotund, such that the obesity prevents it from getting around.

They live on average 12-17 years, and their mature weight can reach up to 125 lb (56.8 kg) and reach 16-26 " at the shoulder. Unless you have extensive experience and knowledge about the breed, it is not recommended that breeding be undertaken.

Housing

Your house is their house. Period! They will be best off in Canada primarily indoors since the winters are too harsh, but they do require regular outdoor exercise. Make sure the yard is fenced if you have them off-leash. Once leash trained, a pig walk twice a day is an excellent way to bond with the pig and is refreshing for both of you.

Watch for extremes in temperatures. They do not tolerate very cold or very hot well.
Soft bedding is appreciated for sleep time. Make sure they are out of drafts.

Behaviour and Handling

Their very high intelligence, trainability, and playful nature can make them a really exciting pet.
They will mimic owners and can be like a young child, getting rather irate if needs are not met, and screaming their demands. If you take the time to train them though, they will understand their limits, and the borders of acceptable behavior will be clear to them. It is important to handle them regularly and gently so that they learn to tolerate lots of human handling, and enjoy this contact. They actually cherish the process of learning new tricks, so like dogs, their quality of life is enhanced if they are provided with daily sessions to master new skills. Leash training and potty training are easily accomplished with patience and repetition.

Do pot bellied pigs like to "root" like their barnyard cousins?

Yes, they really enjoy the opportunity to be challenged with buried food in your play area of the yard. Their curiosity makes them prone to finding things that they shouldn't around the household though. Keep things well out of their reach, especially pharmaceuticals and small foreign objects. "Childproof" your home! They can become adept at opening cupboards so child latches should be considered.

Health Considerations

Regular veterinary care is important for these pets, just like any others. They do require some vaccinations, and the hooves also require trimming if they are indoors. Checking their stool periodically for parasites is important, and abnormal skin, respiratory, or other worrisome signs should be checked out promptly by a veterinarian familiar with this species.

The pot bellied pig is a fascinating pet, and if you are prepared to invest time to train and socialize the pig, they can truly be a wonderful addition to your life.
(Health Considerations of Pot Bellied Pig )

TREATMENT of Rabbits Stomach Impaction

2009-04-08T19:42:00.000-07:00

INTRODUCTION
This condition is very common in rabbits especially during heavy moulting (turnover of the coat).

SIGNS
Patients with this condition are brought to the veterinarian for partial or total loss of appetite, weight loss or poor body condition, and occasionally, for presumed constipation. Feces production gradually diminishes and the pellets are frequently linked together by hair. Eventually, the rabbit stops passing feces completely, leading many owners to believe that their animal is constipated.

In most cases, it is not actually a typical hairball like those found in cats. Instead, it is a rather dense mass of hair and food fibre with the consistency of wool termed a "trichobezoar". This mass allows the passage of fluid and some food, but it cannot move out of the stomach. Furthermore, like horses, rabbits are unable to vomit.

Because of the feeling of fullness in its stomach, a rabbit with this problem will gradually stop eating. Typically, the patient appears to be in good physical condition for quite a while then it will begin to deteriorate rapidly. This explains why many rabbits are not brought to their veterinarian sooner in the disease process.

WHAT TO DO WHEN YOUR RABBIT SHOWS THESE SIGNS?
You should consult your veterinarian as quickly as possible! If the anorexia persists for more than two weeks, it will be very difficult for the veterinarian to save the rabbit.

MAKING THE DIAGNOSIS
A diagnosis is made by carrying out a combination of thorough history taking, palpating the abdomen, performing X-rays (radiographs), and evaluation of laboratory tests. Initially, the stomach will be virtually empty, and the doughy mass can be flattened and will retain the imprint of the fingers. Later, as the disease progresses, the mass becomes increasingly firm.

Suitable food:
hay free choice (timothy or oat)
Up to 60 ml dry food pellets daily
high quality green vegetables

TREATMENT
The first line of treatment is medical. The purpose is to partially dissolve the mass so that it can be eliminated. Supportive care such as fluids may also be given. Drugs that enhance the intestine and stomach motility may be prescribed also. Dietary adjustment is made to provide increased fibre content. Without treatment, this condition can be fatal.

PREVENTION
Daily brushing
Exercise
Feline laxative twice weekly

(TREATMENT of Rabbits Stomach Impaction )

Rabbits Diet and Nutrition

2009-04-08T19:23:00.000-07:00

Many rabbit owners and pet caregivers often have questions regarding the proper dietary and nutritional requirements of a rabbit. A proper diet can increase the overall health and quality of life of your rabbit. However, this is an area surrounded by many misconceptions and inaccuracies. To aid in promoting the health and well-being of rabbits everywhere, the Healthy Rabbit Association of Nova Scotia has compiled a list of do’s and don’ts.

Don’t Feed your Rabbit:

*Any processed foods such as potato chips, corn chips, popcorn, crackers, or cookies
*High carbohydrates or sugars such as bread, oats and other grains, rice, fruits, nuts, and breakfast cereals
*Any processed treats made for rabbits such as honey sticks, donuts or mixed nuts and seeds
*Drinks made for human consumption such as milk, cream, or fruit juices

Do Feed your Rabbit:

*An unlimited amount of good quality timothy or other grass hay
*Fresh water
*Pellets (in measured quantities according to your rabbit’s requirements)
*Grass from your lawn (if untreated with fertilizers and pesticides)
*Dandelions and their greens
*Fresh greens (in small amounts), romaine lettuce, kale, carrot tops, and herbs such as parsley

Rabbits Diet and Nutrition

About Rabbits Malocclusion _Buckteeth

2009-04-08T02:23:00.000-07:00

Rabbit’s teeth grow continuously throughout their lifetime. Rabbits have two main types of teeth, incisors and molars. The incisors are located in the front of the rabbit’s mouth. They are primarily used for grabbing and cutting food. There are six incisors, four on the top and two on the bottom. The first set of upper incisors is easily seen. The second set, known as the peg teeth, are located behind the first set. The top incisors should slightly overlap the bottom teeth. Molars are the back teeth. They are used for grinding food. The molars are worn down by a chewing and grinding action of tooth against tooth.

If a rabbit’s teeth are misaligned they cannot wear down properly. This can be a very serious problem known as malocclusion (or buckteeth). This can result in root and jaw infections, inability to eat, and pain.

Common causes of malocclusion are: injury or trauma to the face disrupting the normal growth of tooth roots, a bacterial tooth root infection which can change the direction of the tooth growth, or the rabbit may have been born that way.

Incisor malocclusion is most common in small breeds. Some rabbits require regular teeth filing. The removal of incisors is the best option. This procedure can be done at the time of spaying or neutering and should be performed by an experienced veterinarian.

Malocclusion can be very uncomfortable for a rabbit. Molar teeth can develop spurs, and may even grow to the point of penetrating the roof of the mouth, cheek, or tongue.

Indicators of teeth problems may include eye and/or nasal discharge, drooling, sneezing, increased thirst, inability to eat, and swelling along the jaw line. If you notice any of these warning signs, your rabbit should be examined by a veterinarian. Both the incisors and the molars should be checked carefully. Quite often the molars are either the cause of an incisor problem, or they themselves will become a problem as a result.

Attempting to trim your rabbit’s teeth at home is not recommended. They can easily split or crack and become susceptible to infection. It is a very uncomfortable procedure for your rabbit and should be performed only by an experienced veterinarian using the proper instruments. The filing of molars usually requires that your rabbit is medically sedated as they are in a hard-to-reach position.

Although malocclusion is a serious problem with may require regular veterinary visits, many rabbits with the problem are able to live happy and normal lives. Please examine your rabbit’s teeth on a regular basis and be observant of their behaviour. As with all medical concerns, early detection is a valuable tool.

Source: The Healthy Rabbit Association of Nova Scotia,About Rabbits Malocclusion _Buckteeth

Know about Parrots Polyomavirus

2009-04-08T02:20:00.000-07:00

Introduction
This viral condition is very frequent in birds, especially in unweaned young. Although all avian species are susceptible to this virus, the following are particularly sensitive: parakeets, large parrots, macaws, eclectus, lovebirds, budgerigars and cockatiels. This disease was formerly known as Budgerigar Fledgeling Disease.

Three different polyomaviruses are found in birds.

1.A virus causing lesions similar to papilloma has been isolated in some European finches (rare).

2.A virus causing lesions similar to papilloma has been isolated in an African grey parrot (Timneh).

3.Budgerigar Fledgeling Disease: A virus resulting in a high mortality rate in psittacine birds, especially in Canada and the United States. It is the main form of the virus and the one we shall discuss here.

Transmission
From parents to young at mealtime (regurgitation). The aviculturist can then transmit the disease when handfeeding if the syringes used are not sterilized between each meal.

The virus spreads in the epidermal cells, especially in the feather follicles, and can be found in feather dust. The respiratory tract is suspected.

Incubation
The parents are carriers, which means that they can transmit the disease but do not develop it. The disease appears in particular in young birds with immature immune systems experiencing a stressful situation: weaning, travel, etc.

Signs
*Distended abdomen
*Absence or malformation of down
*Delayed growth of tail feathers and contours
*Dehydration.
*Cloacal region soiled by urine rather than droppings
*Skin can become reddened
*Mortality
*Crop is often full (which demonstrates that the condition is acute).

The mortality rate can vary from 25 to 100 percent in high-risk young exposed to the disease.

How can you determine if your bird is affected or is a carrier?

Very sensitive tests are now available and can be performed by your veterinarian. These tests are usually performed routinely in babies showing signs of illness. Testing is strongly recommended for parents that have had chicks die at a young age.

Vaccination
Recent studies have shown that the above-mentioned preventive measures, associated with a vigorous vaccination program, help to control this disease in breeding operations.

It should be remembered that the virus is very stable and can remain in the environment for many months. It has already been detected in the air ducts of pet stores!

Treatment
There is unfortunately no treatment for this devastating disease.

Prevention
It is important to stop reproduction for a certain period of time and eliminate affected subjects, or at least prevent them from breeding.

Follow very strict hygiene measures. Disinfect all utensils and wash hands between each bird. Clean and disinfect the environment.

Separate breeders that have never produced abnormal young from those that have had problems.

Avoid all contacts with other breeding operations.Close the breeding facility.

Know about Parrots Polyomavirus

About White Spots on Fish

2009-04-08T02:04:00.000-07:00

Introduction

White spot disease or Ich (pronounced “ik”) is very common in fish. It can easily decimate an entire aquarium.

Ichthyophthirius

1. First, all fish are placed in a hospital tank for seven days. The main tank is left empty during this period and consequently the tomites die since they cannot find a host.

2. Second, 80 per cent of the water in the hospital tank is changed twice daily for seven days. This dilutes the parasites and results in their disappearance over time.

3. Before the fish are reintroduced into the main tank, 80 percent of the water must be changed and the gravel well siphoned.

Cryptocaryon

A copper-based treatment is used for Cryptocaryon. For the dosage and further advice, you should consult a veterinarian who specializes in this field.

Prevention
It is obviously preferable to avoid introducing this disease into your aquarium. All newly acquired plants and fish should be kept in quarantine in a hospital tank for at least 30 days.

When the fish purchased are expensive, you can even give a quarantine treatment in the hospital tank.

What does Ich Look like?

Fish affected by this disease are covered with white spots.

1. Small white spots on the skin, fins and gills. Cysts can measure up to
1 mm. In a massive infestation, fish look as if they have been sprinkled with salt or sugar.

2. The signs of the disease are divided into two major categories: cutaneous (the skin is pruriginous and the fish scratch themselves against the aquarium surfaces) and branchial (more rapid respiration).

3. Secondary bacterial infections are also possible: presence of gelatinous mucus on the skin, hole in the skin.

N.B. Some species may have a very severe gill infestation without significant external signs.

What is the cause?

This disease is caused by two protozoa:

1. Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (fresh water)

2. Cryptocaryon irritans (salt water)

What is the origin of these parasites?

They can be introduced into the tank through plants and live food. Some fish are carriers or are incubating the disease when they are bought. When they are introduced into the aquarium, they contaminate all the other fish.

Disease Cycle

To fully understand how to prevent and treat this disease, it is important to understand its cycle. Without going into too many details, you should know that it is a parasite of the skin and gills.

1.The infectious form (tomite) invades the skin and/or the gills (where it becomes atrophozoite).

2. The trophozoite encysts in the tissues. The cysts then fall from the fish and settle in the aquarium. Division takes place inside them to form up to one thousand tomites. At maturity, the cyst breaks and releases the tomites into the aquarium.

3. The tomites must find a host within 24 hours after their "release."

4. In underpopulated aquaria, most tomites do not find a host. In overpopulated aquaria, tomites can accumulate rapidly.

Completion of the cycle depends on the temperature. It takes ten to twelve hours at 26 C, three to four days at 22 C, three to eleven days at 15 C, up to 30 days at 10 C, and probably several months at lower temperatures. The condition can reach epizootic proportions (all the fish are affected). The mortality rate can be very high.

Treatment

Treatment for this disease is quite simple.

External treatment is ineffective against the forms found in the skin and gills. Treatment therefore focuses on the free-living forms.

About White Spots on Fish

Treatment of Ferrets Pancreatic Tumours

2009-04-08T01:40:00.000-07:00

Introduction

Insulinoma, also known as a tumour of the beta cells of the pancreas, is one of the most common tumours found in ferrets. It is seen in both sexes in subjects generally three years old or older. The exact cause of this condition is unknown.

Signs

This type of tumour leads to an excessive production of insulin that has the effect of lowering the blood sugar level. The organism reacts to increase blood glucose, which explains why the signs are intermittent and disappear spontaneously at the start of the disease.

The patient is usually brought to the veterinarian for episodes of:

*Weakness
*Lethargy
*Difficulty waking
*Occasional excessive salivation

How to Confirm the Diagnosis

Diagnosis is quite easy and consists of demonstrating an abnormally low sugar level. A number of readings are required to confirm the diagnosis. X-rays and ultrasonography can also be useful to obtain informed prognosis and subsequent treatment for this condition.

Attention: This is a Malignant Tumor!

An insulinoma can spread to the liver and lymph nodes. X-rays and ultrasonography, in particular, can sometimes detect these tumours.

Treatment

These tumours can be treated both medically and surgically. Your veterinarian will advise you about the different alternatives, depending on your animal’s condition. The medical treatment does not prevent the spread of the disease, but the symptoms may be relieved for a certain period of time.

The first stage of medical treatment consists of modifying the patient’s diet. High-sugar diets must be avoided since they bring about negative feedback, thus resulting in an even lower sugar level. A high-protein diet must be provided in small daily meals. Brewers yeast contains chromium, which helps stabilize glucose and insulin levels and should be provided in dosages of 1/8 to 1/4 of a teaspoonful morning and evening in the food.

The owner of a ferret with insulinoma should know that a hypoglycemia attack (a drastic drop in blood sugar) can occur, especially if the ferret has had nothing to eat for more than four hours. Corn syrup applied to the ferret’s gums will help you provide relief for your pet until you can contact your veterinarian.

When diet changes are no longer effective, the veterinarian prescribes medicine to increase the patient’s sugar level. As the disease progresses, the animal responds less and less to medicine. When the blood sugar can no longer be controlled and the animal’s quality of life deteriorates significantly, euthanasia must be considered.

Treatment of Ferrets Pancreatic Tumours

How to Adopt an Exotic Pet

2009-04-07T17:21:00.000-07:00

What is an exotic pet?

Although this definition may appear strange, in Canada, any pet that is neither a cat nor a dog is considered to be an exotic pet.

1.What are the main exotic pets owned by Canadians?

·Miniature rabbits and small rodents
·Budgerigar and cockatiel, canary
·Domestic ferret
·Green iguana

It should be noted that aquarium tropical fish far outnumber all these animals together.

2.Why adopt an exotic pet?

Many people are intrigued by the infatuation aroused by exotic animals. Are there any logical reasons for adopting such an animal?

·Allergies
·Lack of essential space
·Problems with work schedule
·Care required
·Other

It is impossible to provide details on all the characteristics of these various animal species. This paper will provide a review of the important points that should be considered before such an animal is adopted.

Important Elements to Consider before Adopting an Exotic Pet

1.Size of Animal

There are size differences between a leopard gecko (30 cm at maturity) and a green iguana (200 cm at maturity), between a budgerigar (40 grams at maturity) and a green-winged macaw (1000 grams at maturity), between a corn snake (2 metres at maturity) and a Burmese python (4 to 5 metres at maturity).

2.Behaviour of Animal

Some exotic animals have characters that are less conducive to frequent manipulation: certain tegus type lizards, anaconda, parrots born in the wild, etc.

3.Feeding Requirements

Many exotic animals need special diets. For example, snakes have to eat their prey whole. They are not for the tenderhearted. Birds should not eat only seed, etc.

4.Captive Condition Requirements

Some tropical fish require water that has exceptional quality and characteristics that are very difficult for most people to achieve. Macaws cannot live in a small cage. They need an entire room with all the inconvenience this can cause. Green iguanas come from the humid tropical forests of Central and South America; recreating such an environment for an animal that measures nearly two metres at maturity is no easy undertaking.

5.Financial Aspect

Whatever the pet, the owner will be required to spend money at one point. An example is the aquatic turtle that is often sold as a miniature turtle. An adult can weigh nearly two kilograms. It takes a very special aquaterrarium to keep a turtle of this size in good health! The related costs can also be very significant.

6.Laws and Regulations

A number of municipalities prohibit certain exotic animals. For example Ste-Foy prohibits the possession of snakes on its territory. The Quebec government forbids possession of venomous reptiles, crocodilians and sea turtles. Furthermore, the only felidae and canidae that can be kept in captivity are domestic cats and dogs.

CONCLUSION

In some cases, exotic animals can become excellent pets. To avoid mistakes that could have serious consequences, it is essential to have a thorough knowledge of the subject before acquiring the animal. The six elements for consideration discussed in this text must be carefully analysed.

How to Adopt an Exotic Pet

How to Keep Goldfish in Good Health

2009-04-07T02:11:00.000-07:00

Goldfish (Carassium auratus) are often the first type of fish that people will buy as pets. They are very easy to care for and are graceful to watch; especially the varieties with the longer fins and tails. Originating in China where goldfish cultivation is still a very popular activity, the spectrum of novel goldfish types has expanded considerably as a result of intensive breeding programs. Over a hundred varieties provide the purchaser with a spectrum of choice ranging from the simple comet-type fish that you commonly find in the local pet store that might sell for a few dollars, to rare varieties that have elaborate coloring and fins that can cost many hundreds of dollars! These fish can be very long-lived if fed and "housed" appropriately. Taking time to set up a top-notch aquarium is a bit of an investment up-front, but will help the fish potentially enjoy a full lifespan, which can easily top 10 years!

Feeding

The provision of flaked goldfish food is an adequate food source. The biggest problem with feeding is usually overfeeding―it can be lethal. Overfeeding will also result in murky water, with the net result that the tank needs to be cleaned much more frequently. Though fish can be fed twice daily, once daily feeding will also suffice. The fish will overeat if they are overfed! A pinch of food per fish per feeding is a good general rule. The "pinch" is an approximate measured dose that is equivalent to about 1/4 of an 1/8th tsp. Flakes should be crumbled into smaller pieces for smaller fish.
Hungry fish will come up to the tank wall when you approach. Sometimes they will put on a flashy swimming display, perhaps to attract attention. A healthy, hungry fish will immediately go after food that is placed into the tank. If normal feeding behaviour is not observed, the health care team should be consulted.
If they are left for more than a day, a weekend (or week) feeder shell should be placed in the tank if a pet sitter is not doing regular feedings. A pet sitter should be carefully shown how much to feed in your absence to avoid overfeeding.

Basic Biology and Aquarium (Environmental) Design

The goldfish is considered a very hardy species, and is tolerant of temperature changes, but still requires clean, chlorine-free water, proper water aeration and filtering, and enough space to move around. The little round goldfish bowls that often come packaged with a "goldfish-to-go" are not ideal aquariums. The typical round bowl is too small, especially for more than one fish, and does not provide easy setup of a filter or aerator system (a sale package would not typically include these latter components). A 10-20 gallon tank is not excessive for one or two fish, and the typical rectangular aquarium tank package provides a top that will mount a filter, and has entry points for an aerator system.

To ensure that the water is safe, make sure that it is de-chlorinated using drops available from the pet supplier, or allow water to sit for at least 24 hours (the latter is not considered as effective to clear chlorine). Take care to avoid temperature shock by checking the water temperature before you place the fish into the tank. When cleaning the tank, avoid strong chemical cleaners, and rinse everything very thoroughly since soap and bleach residues are toxic.

The tank should be placed out of direct sunlight because this may lead to overheated water, and sunlight favors algae growth. If the tank is set up correctly, very little water turnover is needed. Removing, and replacing 1/4 of the water volume every 7-10 day will suffice. Full tank cleaning should be done on an as-need basis, but in a good set-up, often full cleans can be done at 2, or even 3 month intervals.

Providing the fish with plants and toy caves is strongly recommended. They really enjoy the opportunity to "hide" in their cubbies and seem to feel more secure when plastic or real plants provide a bit of a hiding spot. Though a substrate is not necessary, the tank generally has some gravel or large glass beads as a base.
Always use a net to catch the fish, otherwise your hand may strip the surface of the scales of their valuable slippery coating, and it is much more stressful for fish to feel pressure of fingers (also easy to lose grip, and drop it!).

How to Keep Goldfish in Good Health

How to Keep Iguana in Good Health

2009-04-07T02:08:00.000-07:00

Iguana iguana (green iguana) is the most common pet iguana species. They are herbivores so their nutrients come from plant material such as fruit, vegetables, leaves, hay, and flowers. They eat mostly vegetables. A moistened chow is offered to provide protein, though the recommended types of chow may vary.

Basic Biology

The lifespan is variable, but it is not unusual for them to reach 10 years of age with proper husbandry. Adult males are much larger than females, and they live apart except at breeding times. The female lays an average of 40 eggs, and these hatch in 3 months. A nesting area needs to provide the female with a soft, deep substrate to "bury" their clutch or egg binding (retention) may occur.

Health Considerations

If inadequate humidity is provided, retained shed skin on the feet can lead to toe infections.
Proper levels of Calcium intake in the diet, and regular UV ray exposure are important strategies to help prevent skeletal problems (metabolic bone disease); a fairly common, but preventable health problem.

Housing

This is an ectothermic species, which means that they use the environmental temperature to regulate their own body temperature. The old fashioned term for this was cold-blooded, but since they can have very warm internal body (and blood) temperatures, this term has gone out of general use.

An important housing parameter is the provision of gradients of temperature within their environment so that they are not subjected to inappropriate heat or cold. They should have a choice to move about and select the preferred temperature zone. A source of warmth externally at one end of the enclosure should be provided. Special heat tape products are available that produce relatively safe sources, but for a single cage, a moisture-proof warm water circulating pad can easily be placed in a dry area. If heat bulbs (infrared) or incandescent bulbs are chosen, they must be placed outside and at a distance from the pet that will not lead to burns.

A thermometer should be mounted in the housing to check for average ambient temperature since chronic exposure to a temperature below optimum is a frequent cause of health and appetite problems. Humidity should also be maintained in an optimal range.

A glass terrarium with a screen top is useful. The provision of lots of climbing territory (e.g., tree branches or large rocks) will help them to maintain a healthy level of exercise. Various bedding substrates can be used, but a favorite for the hide box area is sphagnum moss. Wood chips are an acceptable environment substrate. Fresh water is essential, and smaller iguanids may need a drip system. Provide a large water pond as well so that they can soak as needed.

Fluorescent black lights should be provided as a source of UV light. The UV light acts to support Vitamin D production.

Handling and Behaviour

The young iguanas should be exposed to handling in a very graduated fashion, since over-handling can be stressful. Once they are adjusted to handling, they will tolerate contact well.

How to Keep Iguana in Good Health

How to Keep Rabbit in Good Health

2009-04-07T02:07:00.000-07:00

The pet rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus) is a fun, gentle, and cuddly family pet, and 14 distinct pet breeds are now commonly available. Soft haired angora types, dwarf breeds, and lop eared (dropped ear) varieties are favorites. They used to be considered rodents, but are now classified as Lagamorphs.

Basic Biology

The average age at maturity is about 5 months. Their weight at maturity depends on the breed. Dwarfs average 1.25 kg, medium breeds are about 3.5 kg, and large breeds such as Lop Ear may exceed 5 kg. Their lifespan is quite variable, with an average of 7-12 years (it's much shorter if they're not spayed or castrated). Note that the record lifespan is around 17 years!

The rabbit is an herbivore, and coprophagy (eating the night feces, or cecotropes) is an important part of their digestive process. High quality rabbit pellets are fed twice daily or free choice, and hay is offered free choice also. Additional fresh fruits and vegetables are offered in small quantities to round out the diet.

Health Considerations

Rabbits are particularly susceptible to bacterial Pasteurellosis, or "snuffles", a common respiratory system condition. Supportive therapy and antibiotic treatment are both very important strategies to help prevent serious complications that develop in some patients, so a "rabbit cold" should not be ignored; call your veterinarian when symptoms are first noted.
If the rabbit is allowed in a yard enclosure under supervision, make sure no predators are in the area!

Housing

Though rabbit hutches can be located in a sheltered location outdoors, the pet rabbit needs to be protected from temperature extremes, dampness, and drafts. The most common indoor house is in a wire mesh cage, with partial mesh and partial solid floor. Allowing time out of the cage for exercise every day is important for mental and physical health, but the room should be well "rabbit-proofed" first because they can damage furniture, or chew on electric cords with serious consequences. Rabbits can be litter trained like a cat, but use recycled paper pellet type litter because regular cat litters cause digestive upsets. Water should be supplied in a wall bottle since floor bowls are apt to be tipped over and result in wet bedding.

Handling and Behaviour

Most rabbits are very docile if they have been handled consistently and gently from a young age. They are carried alongside the body usually, with their head tucked into the elbow area. It is essential that the hind end always be gently supported because if a rabbit twists suddenly or lets out a strong kick, the back can be injured; even broken. They have a very timid nature, and care should be taken to minimize stress. A frightened rabbit may swing the back legs out and release a very strong kick, so if they are being lifted or handled when stressed or in pain, care should be taken to protect the handler from a possible kick.

Not every veterinary clinic handles this species, so when a rabbit first comes into the home, it is important to contact a clinic that does, so that everything is in place should problems arise. The veterinary hospital is also a great source for general health care information.

How to Keep Rabbit in Good Health

How to Keep Ferret in Good Health

2009-04-07T01:58:00.000-07:00

The ferret (Mustela putorious) is an active, playful pet that enjoys human companionship. They are docile and should be handled gently from an early age. They are notorious for slipping through very small spaces, so make sure home exits are well secured if they free roam in the home! Though we usually think of ferrets coloured with their wild type hair coat colour, selective breeding has resulted in over 20 colour varieties. They have been domesticated for about two centuries, and in the United States, in some states it is illegal to own them, so it is important to check local and state ordinances before purchasing a ferret.

Health Considerations

Ferrets require very high quality and concentration of protein and fats in their diet. Deficiencies are common unless the diet is carefully formulated. Unless female ferrets are part of a breeding program, they should be spayed since intact females will often develop estrogen hormone imbalances, and this can progress to blood cell changes, and eventually bone marrow suppression. Other common conditions in adults relate to hormone excesses originating from the adrenal glands or pancreas.
It is very important to ensure free access to water at all times since water deprivation leads to serious health complications.

Basic Biology

The ferret lives an average of 6 years, and the males are about twice the size of females. Males (hobs) average 1500 g and the females (jills) average 750 g body weight. Ferret kits are born after a 41day pregnancy, and litters average eight young. Weaning is usually done at five to eight weeks of age, and maturity occurs at five to nine months old. The species is carnivorous, which means that they need a diet consisting of animal origin components. Their digestive tract is designed for frequent meals; processing foods only takes a few hours so they will get hungry frequently during a day. Free access to food at all times is the preferred schedule. Sometimes cat food is used as the primary diet, other times a commercial ferret pellet diet is chosen. Home-made "natural source" complex diets have been used, but this option is a challenge because of difficulty preparing a complete and balanced diet with optimal nutrient balance, so it should be done only with veterinary or nutritionist consultation.

The odor of the ferret is a concern for some potential owners. The mature male ferret gives off the strongest odor, but jills in estrus will also have a strong odor. Unlike the skunk, they do not generally empty out the smelly anal gland spray, and do not require anal gland removal. Neutering the ferret will provide a significant reduction in odor (over 90%), but a low-level residual odor will usually remain.

Housing

The ferret can be housed outdoors in less harsh climates if proper shelter and bedding are provided, but usually they are housed indoors in small mesh wire enclosures with metal or mesh flooring. Bedding and sleeping areas should be provided. Some caregivers allow free roaming in the home if it is "ferret proofed" when they are home to monitor their activities. A litter box can be used either in the enclosure or in the home. Pellet litter, or shavings are preferred to clumping or clay- type cat litter.
The ferret is a playful animal, and provision of toys and exercise tunnels will help them entertain themselves (and the family!). Toys should be carefully selected, since soft toys will end up chewed up into dangerous pieces that could be swallowed.

Handling and Behaviour

Handling ferrets takes a bit of practice because of their uncanny ability to squirm and wiggle their way out of a grip. The scruff restraint is very effective when nail trims or other situations require them to be quite still; a nice abdomen rub will help to calm and relax the ferret. To carry them securely, tuck their bodies under the arm along the side of your chest. If the ferret has been handled frequently and gently from an early age, biting will not usually be a problem.

How to Keep Ferret in Good Health -

How to Keep Rat in Good Health

2009-04-06T18:11:00.000-07:00

A rat for a pet? You bet! Rattus norvegicus, or the Norway rat, is a wonderful companion. They are very intelligent, gentle, and sometimes just a little mischievous. Though wild rats are considered vermin, their domestic counterpart is a valued household pet, and those who know the domestic rat well will tout their easy nature, and their ease of care.

Basic Biology

At birth, the babies are only 5 g. It takes them about 3 weeks to finish the nursing phase. These newborns will mature with a weight of about 480 g for the male, and 275 g for the female. They live 3 1/2 years on average, and give birth to a litter of about 9 babies after a pregnancy of 3 weeks. They are classed as omnivores, which means that their diet encompasses fruit, vegetables, seeds, and some animal components. Rats are naturally coprophagic, which means that they ingest their own stools. This process actually contributes to normal food processing, and though proper hygiene for housing is important, observing this behavior does not mean that the rat is sick. Commercial rat food pellets are the staple diet. They need about 5 g feed for every 100 g body weight. They like to stash their food around their enclosure, and enjoy the secret stores at their convenience.

Health Considerations
The rat is generally a very healthy species. Probability of health concerns increases with the colony size. Not every veterinary practice accepts rats as patients, so it is important to establish a relationship with a local practice that is comfortable handling this species, so that if a problem should arise, the healthcare team is at your service and ready to help.

Housing

Though your couch might be the perfect rat choice for home, a cage that provides a secure enclosure is obviously a safer alternative. Rats like to burrow and dig, and provision of soft bedding to nest in is much appreciated. Inexpensive nesting boxes and cotton fibre fill will provide a safe haven in the enclosure. Some room to climb and run is necessary, and the food and water containers should be somewhat enclosed to prevent soiling into them. Note that rats are able to do Houdini escapes because of their intelligence, so attention should be paid to provision of a very secure enclosure hatch! Breeding pairs are housed together, but the female is removed during pregnancy and nursing.

Behaviour and Handling

One must use caution if the rat is not used to handling since rats can deliver a significant bite. Restraint with an over-the-back hand position, with thumb and forefinger stabilizing the back end of the jaw is ideal. Avoid excessive pressure on the chest cavity. Note that handling by the tail tip only will cause discomfort, and possibly injury. Because the front end is not stabilized, the rat can also turn and bite if they wish!
The rat can be a source of human allergy, particularly due to a protein that is shed into the urine, and sometimes, the saliva proteins are also allergenic. If a caregiver is experiencing symptoms related to allergy, this should be attended to because human allergies can become severe.

How to Keep Rat in Good Health

How to Keep Guinea Pig in Good Health

2009-04-06T18:02:00.000-07:00

The rodent species Cavia porcellus, (Guinea pig), or "cavie" makes a wonderful pet that is easy to care for, and they most certainly will entertain you with their gentle ways. Their wild ancestors originated in South America, but they have been captive-bred for over four hundred years, and are now well domesticated.

Types of Guinea Pigs, or "G.P' s"

The breeding programs select for both hair color and hair type, and as a result, some distinct haircoat appearances have evolved. There are four basic haircoat types. Long straight hairs are found in the Peruvian coat, smooth shorthair coats are found in the English coat; Abyssinian coats consist of straight, medium length hairs organized into whorls or circular patterns over the body, and finally, there is a medium silky-type coat. Many coat variations exist because single colour, bicolour or tricolour varieties can mix colour combinations such as white, brown, and black in different patterns.

Health Considerations

If any change in attitude, appetite, or appearance of the guinea pig is noted, don't wait before you consult with a veterinarian. Guinea pigs are quite stoic, so they may not shows signs of ill health until later in the disease process. Weighing them once every 2 weeks at home is an excellent way to monitor their basic health. Some veterinarians do not look after this species, so when you bring your guinea pig home, contact a veterinarian in the area that does handle them routinely so that if a problem should arise, you have a health care team ready to help!

Basic Biology

The guinea pig is an herbivore, which means that vegetables, seeds, grasses, and fruits are typical dietary components. They ferment these feedstuffs in a large colon (lower intestine) and require constant access to their food. It is important to provide water in a leak-proof bottle suspended from the cage since they will foul water left in an open dish. The species lacks an enzyme for Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) production and thus require daily supplementation with this dietary component. The supplement can be added to the water, or provided as a natural fruit source, such as three orange sections daily. If the pig is not used to the supplement being provided in the water from a very young age, it can be tough to convince them to take it this way, so they should be consistently provided with one or the other type of supplement.

Guinea pigs live between 5 and 10 years on average. The average weight at birth is 85 g, and the average adult female weighs 800g. The average male adult weighs 1050 g at maturity. Young guinea pigs are usually weaned at about 3-4 weeks of age. Sexual maturity is usually reached when the body weight is about one half of the final adult weight. If a breeding program is to be undertaken, make sure that information about this species has been reviewed. Allowing the female (sow) to fully mature before breeding can lead to birthing problems, for example, so make sure that proper breeding management is in place.

Housing

Guinea pigs are not noted for tidy housekeeping so regular environment maintenance is very important. They require a very dry environment, and temperature extremes and drafts should be avoided. Aspen shavings are used for solid floor surfaces. At least part or all of the floor should be solid floor rather than wire. Guinea pigs left on wire-only surfaces will develop foot problems.

Behaviour and Handling

Guinea pigs should be handled from an early age. Gentle restraint that provides support of the hind end with one hand, and support of the chest area by placing the other hand on the underside is appropriate. Handle to prevent falls because they do not tolerate even minor falls well. Avoid scruffing the neck, or encircling the chest area with a hand. If they are handled regularly and gently, they will not be likely to bite or scratch. The nails may require periodic trimming, and teeth should be checked if any change in appetite is noted. Inter-pig aggression can occur when dominant males are placed with subordinate males either alone or in the presence of a sow in estrous, or if a male (boar) is left in after the sow gives birth, the young may be at risk.

How to Keep Guinea Pig in Good Health

How to keep Hamster in Good Health ?

2009-04-06T17:58:00.001-07:00

A typical day for the hamster entails running the equivalent horizontal distance of 2 miles (3.2 km). The Syrian hamster is the most common pet species (Mesocricetus auratus); he's the rodent that puts any human jogging schedule to shame! The hamster is a supreme runner, and the exercise wheel in his enclosure, or one of the modern hamster racing cars or exercise balls allow him to showcase his talents in your household!
If they are handled gently on a regular basis, they truly are fun, docile pets for a household.

Basic Biology

This rodent is a night animal so they do most of their feeding and exercise activities after sunset. They have been bred to express a wide variety of hair colour, hair length, and coat type. The longhaired variety is supposed to be the most gentle, but the socialization of any hamster has the largest impact on their personality. They are herbivores, which means that they will eat fruit, vegetable, seeds, and grassy foods. They use their monstrous cheek pouches to "hoard" their food, and will hide their seeds around their home.

The babies are only 2 g at birth, and mature to an average of 110 g for the males, and 130 g average for the female. They reach puberty at about 2 1/2 months. Pregnancy lasts only 2 1/2 weeks and the average litter is about 7-8 babies. A typical lifespan is about 1 1/2 to 2 years.

Housing

Hamsters really have it made with modern hamster condo options! Modern enclosures provide wonderful cubbies to snuggle in, and tunnels with plenty of turns and twists to explore. Plastic or metal exercise wheels are provided, and little sleeping and toilet enclosures with clear, or opaque lids (for privacy!) can be set around in the modern hamster house.

All this does not fix the fact that hamsters don't like much company, so they are housed solo unless there is a breeding program underway. They are masters in the art of escape, so the enclosure hatch should be secure. A leak-proof water bottle should be offered on the side of the enclosure, and some sticks for chewing, and a salt block are offered in addition to the hamster chow/seed mix and hay. Aspen chips are preferred as a substrate for bedding. The environment should be kept very clean and dry to help prevent foot and leg problems.

The hamsters appreciate having their stashes of food left somewhat intact when the enclosure is cleaned.
Unfortunately, they often mix their droppings in, so dirty stashes should be cleared out.

Handling and Behaviour

This species benefits from regular gentle handling from the time they are weaned. Proper handling will lead to a contented hamster that will tolerate lots of activities. If they are awakened suddenly, or not accommodated to regular handling, they can roll over, yell, and deliver a nasty nip. They should be approached so that they are aware of your movements. For carrying or holding, they can be placed in a cupped hand, or loosely restrained over the body. The short tail should never be used as a lifting point.

Health Considerations

Though treats of fresh fruit, cereal and grass are appropriate, avoid feeding large quantities of fresh water-rich food because diarrhea can result. Make sure that the bag of hamster chow does not sit around for more than 3-4 months because the vitamin E added to the diet during manufacture can degrade under prolonged storage, and this species is known to be prone to Vitamin E deficiency problems. The species is quite healthy by nature in general though.

How to keep Hamster in Good Health ?_